Wandercrust Pizza at The Pelton Arms

Just what London needed - another pub serving pizza. Because apparently the city's 47,392 existing pizza spots weren't quite enough. Yet here I am, reluctantly admitting that Wandercrust Pizza at The Pelton Arms has managed to do something rather special with their stone-baked offerings in this corner of London.

I initially rolled my eyes at the whole concept. A traditional British pub serving Italian classics? Please. It's like watching your uncle Dave attempt TikTok dances - theoretically possible, but usually best avoided. But sometimes, just sometimes, uncle Dave surprises you with unexpectedly smooth moves.

The Pelton Arms itself is everything you'd expect from a proper London boozer - wooden floors that have seen better decades, a bar that could tell tales that would make a sailor blush, and the kind of authentic charm you can't manufacture with an interior designer's Pinterest board. But then there's that pizza oven, gleaming like a spacecraft that's crash-landed in Victorian London.

Let's talk about that pizza, shall we? Because despite my best efforts to maintain professional cynicism, it's annoyingly good. The crust achieves that perfect sweet spot between Neapolitan chew and Roman crispness - a diplomatic solution that would make the UN proud. And the toppings? They're applied with the kind of restraint that makes Italian grandmothers nod in approval.

Their "Psycho" pizza, which I ordered purely to mock its try-hard name, made me eat my words along with every last crumb. It's spicy without being a macho heat challenge, complex without being pretentious. Rather like finding out your local pub band actually consists of secret Conservatory graduates.

The vegan options aren't just sad afterthoughts either, which is refreshing in a pub setting. They've somehow managed to create plant-based pizzas that don't taste like recycled cardboard topped with broken promises. Will wonders never cease?

The beer garden deserves a mention, if only because it manages to be an actual garden rather than three plastic chairs next to a cigarette bin. On warm evenings, it's rather lovely, in an understated British way. Though do book ahead unless you fancy joining the sad faces peering hopefully at reserved signs on every table.

Speaking of drinks - yes, the pints are London-priced (insert mandatory grumbling about remembering when beer cost thruppence), but they're well-kept and there's a decent selection. The wine list won't win awards, but it's perfectly adequate for washing down your pizza, which is really what you're here for anyway.

Monday nights offer a two-for-one deal that makes the value proposition particularly attractive, though you'll need to wrestle with the crowds of savvy locals who've already cottoned onto this fact. It's like trying to find a seat on the Central Line at rush hour, only with better odds of success and significantly better smells.

Service manages to strike that perfect pub balance - friendly without being overbearing, efficient without being corporate. They actually seem to enjoy working here, which in London's hospitality scene is about as rare as an affordable zone 1 flat.

The live music on weekends adds another layer to the experience, though your enjoyment may depend on your tolerance for enthusiastic cover bands. I've witnessed everything from surprisingly competent Blues Brothers tributes to what I can only describe as experimental jazz interpreted through the medium of pub rock.

Look, I didn't want to like Wandercrust Pizza at The Pelton Arms. I really didn't. London has enough decent pizza places, enough characterful pubs, enough fusion concepts. But somehow this place has managed to create something greater than the sum of its parts. It's like finding out that karaoke night at your local actually produced a legitimate recording artist - improbable, but occasionally magic happens.

Take the ten-minute riverside walk from Cutty Sark. Book a table (trust me on this one). Order a pizza, grab a pint, and prepare to join the ranks of the reluctantly converted. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.