The Spurstowe Arms

Just what London needs - another Victorian pub in Hackney trying to convince us it's special. The Spurstowe Arms has all the predictable trappings: exposed brick, vintage fixtures, and a crowd of creative types who probably work in "digital something-or-other." I approached with the weary resignation of someone who's seen this story play out a thousand times before.

But damn it all if this place didn't slowly win me over against my better judgment. Perhaps it was the way the afternoon light streamed through that admittedly gorgeous stained-glass bay window, casting warm patterns across the wooden floors. Or maybe it was watching the bar staff - who, yes, could occasionally benefit from an intensive course in the lost art of smiling - skillfully navigate the packed J-shaped bar during peak hours without dropping a single craft beer.

Speaking of which, let's address the elephant in the room: the prices. They're exactly what you'd expect from a trendy East London pub, which is to say they'll make your wallet slightly uncomfortable but not quite ready to file for divorce. The Cruzcampo will set you back £6.80, a sum that would have made our grandparents faint but somehow feels almost reasonable in 2025's London.

Now, about that pizza. I rolled my eyes when I heard The Spurstowe Arms was serving "artisanal pizza" - because obviously they are, it's 2025 in Hackney - but Dough Hands (the resident pizza operation) has forced me to eat my words along with several of their pies. The Shroomy, in particular, with its perfect stringy cheese pull and that garlic dip that I'm pretty sure contains some form of legally questionable addictive substance, is worth the sometimes painful wait times.

The space itself manages to thread the needle between "cozy pub" and "Instagram backdrop" without falling completely into either trap. High ceilings prevent the dark-painted woodwork from feeling oppressive, while cream walls and eclectic artwork keep things from veering into Victorian theme park territory. The beer garden out back is a proper sun trap when London remembers what sunshine is, though you'll need to sharpen your elbows to secure a spot during peak hours.

Dog owners, rejoice - your four-legged friends are welcome here, adding to the local charm. Though I did witness one particularly enthusiastic golden retriever nearly upend a craft beer flight, which was either a tragedy or performance art, depending on your perspective.

The Spurstowe Arms has clearly found its groove in the neighborhood, attracting a loyal following that packs the place even on dreary February afternoons. The atmosphere manages to be buzzy without crossing into chaotic, though you might need to embrace your inner sardine during peak hours. They take cards, support contactless payments, and - in a shocking deviation from some of their peers - actually seem to want you to spend money here.

Let's be clear: this isn't your grandfather's pub. If you're seeking sticky carpets and fruit machines, you're in the wrong postcode. But for those willing to accept that London's pub scene has evolved, The Spurstowe Arms offers something rather special. The service might occasionally channel the warmth of a British winter, but the overall experience - from the thoughtfully preserved Victorian features to that irritatingly excellent pizza - creates something that feels both contemporary and timeless.

For residents of Hackney or the adventurous souls willing to brave the Overground, The Spurstowe Arms deserves your attention. Just don't all rush there at once - I'm still trying to secure my favorite corner spot by the stained-glass window. And if you see someone pretending not to enjoy their third slice of Shroomy pizza while scribbling notes, that's definitely not me having to admit I was wrong about yet another East London establishment.