The Snooty Fox

Just what London needs - another pub with "Snooty" in its name. The Snooty Fox in London's suburbs initially struck me as yet another pretender to the British pub throne, complete with the obligatory Victorian-era facade and chalkboard promising "proper pub grub." Oh, how I longed to hate it.

But damn it all if this place hasn't wormed its way into my cold, critic's heart like a persistent earworm you initially despise before catching yourself humming it in the shower. The first crack in my cynical armor appeared when I noticed the walls adorned with carefully curated photos of entertainment legends - not your typical tacky memorabilia, but genuinely interesting snapshots that spark conversation. Well played, Snooty Fox. Well played.

The rotating cast of local ales would be unremarkable if not for the staff's surprisingly genuine enthusiasm for discussing them. Unlike the usual "yeah, it's good" mumblings you get at most London pubs, these folks actually know their stuff. They'll guide you through the selection without a hint of the condescension their establishment's name might suggest. Though I'd argue the beer selection is merely above average, their commitment to proper serving temperature and glass cleanliness (basics that shouldn't be noteworthy but sadly are) deserves reluctant recognition.

Let's talk about the Sunday roast because, frankly, it's the elephant in the room. In a city where mediocre roasts are as common as tourists asking for directions to Buckingham Palace, The Snooty Fox somehow manages to serve one that doesn't make me question my career choices. The roast potatoes - and I can't believe I'm writing this - are actually crispy on the outside and fluffy within. Not the sad, oil-soaked specimens that plague lesser establishments. The gravy... well, it's proper gravy, not the brown water that passes for it in half of London's pubs.

Their rotisserie chicken deserves its own paragraph. It's simple, yes, but that's precisely the point. In an era where every pub thinks it needs to serve deconstructed shepherd's pie with a foam of something unnecessary, The Snooty Fox just serves really good chicken. The kind that makes you wonder why more places can't get this basic thing right. The skin is crispy, the meat is juicy, and they don't try to "elevate" it with truffle oil or whatever the current trendy ingredient is.

The prices won't make you gasp in either horror or delight - they're firmly in the "fair enough for London" category. Their Wednesday burger and pint deal at £15 is actually decent value, though I'm slightly annoyed at having to admit that. The portion sizes won't leave you questioning whether you've accidentally ordered from the children's menu, nor will they force you to waddle home in discomfort.

The space itself manages to thread the needle between "cozy pub" and "actually being able to hear your companions speak." The outdoor seating area isn't an afterthought, and they're dog-friendly without letting the place turn into an impromptu kennel club. The interior strikes a balance between traditional pub aesthetics and modern comfort that I find irritatingly well-executed.

They handle events with surprising competence - wedding receptions, group bookings, that sort of thing. The staff somehow maintains their composure even when dealing with the inevitable chaos of large parties, which is more than I can say for many supposedly higher-end establishments.

Positioned conveniently near the train station, The Snooty Fox in London has achieved something I didn't think possible - it's become a reliable local that doesn't rest on its laurels of convenient location alone. Whether you're stopping in for a quick pint, settling in for a Sunday roast, or booking it for an event, you'll find yourself, as I did, becoming increasingly annoyed at how little there is to be properly annoyed about.

Go on then, visit The Snooty Fox. Join me in the grudging appreciation of a London pub that's actually trying - and succeeding - at being good at what it does. Just don't tell them I sent you. I have a reputation to maintain.