The Nel

Just what London needs - another pub with a monosyllabic name. The Nel joins the ever-growing ranks of establishments apparently too cool for complete words, nestled in a city already bursting with places to drink away your weekday sorrows. I approached with the kind of enthusiasm usually reserved for dental appointments.

But damn it all if The Nel hasn't managed to charm even my professionally jaded sensibilities.

First, let's address the elephant in the room - or rather, the surprisingly well-designed space containing said elephant. Unlike the typical London pub that seems to have been decorated by your great-aunt's estate sale, The Nel actually appears to have consulted someone with functioning retinas. The balance between indoor coziness and outdoor space feels less accident and more actual intention, which is refreshing in a city where "beer garden" usually means "three wooden tables crammed into a former loading dock."

The outdoor area deserves special mention, if only because it doesn't make you feel like you're dining in a smoking area time capsule from 1995. It's actually... pleasant. There. I said it. Perfect for those three days of summer London generously provides each year.

And then there's the food. I went in expecting the usual pub grub - you know, the kind that makes you question every life decision that led you to that moment. Instead, I found myself involuntarily making those embarrassing little pleasure noises over their Sunday roast. The kind of noises that make nearby tables uncomfortable. The kind that forced me to pretend I was having an allergic reaction to save face.

Let's talk about that roast for a moment, shall we? Because it's not just good "for a pub" - it's good full stop. The kind of good that makes you momentarily forget about all those mediocre pub roasts that have disappointed you over the years. The kind that makes you want to send a passive-aggressive photo to your aunt who claims nobody can beat her Sunday cooking.

The quiz night situation requires addressing, though it pains me to admit they actually do this well too. Sunday evenings see a proper pub quiz that manages to be both challenging and entertaining - a rare combination in a world where most pub quizzes seem designed either for PhD candidates or people who've had severe head trauma. Just note that it's strictly adults-only after 8 PM, which has caused some pearl-clutching among the local parent population. Sorry, Karen, your six-month-old probably wasn't going to be much help with the current affairs round anyway.

The staff - and I cannot believe I'm writing this - actually seem to enjoy their jobs. Jo and Miguel (mentioned so frequently in reviews it's like they're running for local office) manage to provide service that's both efficient and genuinely friendly, which in London is about as common as a reasonable rent price.

They've got all the expected libations - beer, wine, cocktails - and they actually know how to serve them properly. The pints aren't 30% foam, the wine hasn't been open since the last royal wedding, and the cocktails don't taste like they were mixed by someone whose only training was watching "Cocktail" once on a plane.

Dog-friendly, group-friendly, and sports-showing capabilities tick all the requisite boxes for a proper London pub. They've even managed to sort out modern payment methods, so you won't have to perform the traditional British pub dance of "sorry, cash only" followed by a half-mile trek to the nearest ATM.

Look, I didn't want to like The Nel. I walked in ready to pen another scathing review about London's declining pub culture. Instead, I'm sitting here, questioning my entire cynical worldview, because this place actually gets it right. It's everything a modern London pub should be, while somehow maintaining the soul of what makes a pub great in the first place.

If you find yourself in this corner of London (and let's face it, you will - we all end up everywhere in this city eventually), do yourself a favor and give The Nel a shot. Book ahead for the Sunday roast, bring your four-legged friend if you have one, and prepare to be annoyingly impressed. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.