The Lord Napier Star

Just what East London needed - another allegedly hip pub trying to cash in on Hackney Wick's inexplicable coolness. The Lord Napier Star in London has all the predictable trappings: graffiti-covered walls, Edison bulbs presumably salvaged from a defunct factory, and crowds of people who look like they've raided a vintage shop blindfolded. And yet...

I hate to admit it, but there's something quietly magnetic about this place. Maybe it's the way it wears its grungy history like a badge of honor, or how it manages to be both a proper boozer and an accidental art gallery. The building itself, a Victorian-era pub turned canvas for street artists, stands as a defiant middle finger to gentrification - while simultaneously being a product of it. Oh, the irony.

Let's address the elephant in the room: the service. It moves at what we'll charitably call a "mindful pace." You might want to order your second drink while still nursing your first, and perhaps consider writing a novel while waiting for your food. But here's the thing - everyone's so genuinely friendly that it's hard to maintain proper British indignation about it. The staff treats you less like customers and more like friends who've popped round for a drink, complete with the casual disregard for urgency that implies.

The food situation is a rollercoaster of emotions. Their Sunday roast (when they haven't run out) is surprisingly competent - the kind of meal that makes you question your cynicism about pub food. The Yorkshire puddings are properly risen, not those sad, deflated affairs you usually get. The rest of the menu is hit-or-miss, though. Their burger might make you wish you'd walked to the golden arches instead, but then they'll serve you something unexpectedly brilliant that makes you forget all about it.

The drinks selection deserves a reluctant slow clap. They've managed to stock both proper ales for the old guard and enough craft beer to satisfy the beard-stroking brigade. The cocktails are decent enough to justify their middle-of-the-road pricing, though don't expect any molecular mixology nonsense - and thank goodness for that.

What truly sets The Lord Napier Star apart from London's endless parade of try-hard venues is its remarkable ability to be whatever you need it to be. Want a quiet afternoon pint? There's a corner for that. Fancy a rowdy night out? The weekend crowd's got you covered. Need a spot for a first date that says "I'm culturally aware but not pretentious"? Bingo.

The outdoor seating area is a godsend when London remembers what sunshine is, though you might have to fight off both pigeons and Instagram influencers for a table. Dogs are welcome, which adds an element of chaos and joy that somehow works perfectly with the whole vibe. Just watch your step - some owners are more attentive than others.

Here's what you really need to know: book ahead for Sunday roast (unless you enjoy disappointment), bring cash as backup when the card machine inevitably has a moment, and don't expect to hear yourself think on Friday nights. The place gets packed faster than a tube station during rush hour, but unlike the tube, people actually seem happy to be here.

Speaking of location, The Lord Napier Star in London sits proudly in Hackney Wick, surrounded by breweries, art studios, and people who look like they're extras in a film about creative types. It's exactly the kind of spot that shouldn't work anymore - too authentic for the tourists, too popular with locals to maintain its edge. Yet somehow, it does.

Look, I didn't want to like it. I really didn't. But much like that friend who won't stop talking about their sourdough starter, The Lord Napier Star has worn me down with its persistent charm. Book a table, order a pint, and prepare to join the ranks of reluctant converts. Just don't blame me if you end up becoming one of those people who won't shut up about how great Hackney Wick is.