The Hanbury

Just what London needs - another gastropub masquerading as the savior of British drinking culture. The Hanbury in Islington positions itself as that increasingly rare creature: the "authentic" London pub that hasn't surrendered entirely to the small plates revolution. I approached with my usual skepticism, fully prepared to pen another scathing critique of mediocrity masked by mood lighting.

But damn it all if The Hanbury hasn't managed to crack my cynical exterior like a perfectly crispy pork crackling.

Let's address the elephant in the room - yes, it's suspiciously affordable for London. In a city where a pint can cost as much as a small car payment, The Hanbury's prices feel almost apologetic, like they forgot to adjust for inflation sometime around 2015. I kept waiting for the other shoe to drop, for the revelation that the reasonable prices were compensation for something terrible. Perhaps the beer would be warm (and not in the proper cask ale way), or the staff would have all the charm of a London bus driver during rush hour.

Instead, I found myself settling into one of those infuriatingly comfortable corner seats, watching the afternoon light filter through windows that have probably witnessed centuries of Londoners drowning their sorrows. The space maintains that delicate balance between "actually historic" and "theme park version of a British pub" that so many places get wrong. The wooden beams overhead are legitimately aged, not artificially distressed by some overeager interior designer fresh out of Central Saint Martins.

The beer selection is comprehensive without being pretentious - you won't find any triple-hopped cucumber saisons here, thank god. They've got a solid rotation of local craft options alongside the usual suspects, and - I can't believe I'm saying this - they actually know how to pour them properly. The staff maintains that perfect pub knowledge level: informative when you need them, invisible when you don't.

What truly forced me to reassess my predetermined disdain was the Sunday roast. I've suffered through enough dry Yorkshire puddings and leather-tough beef to last several lifetimes, but The Hanbury's version is... well, it's bloody good. The Yorkshire pudding rises like a hot air balloon, the roast potatoes actually crack when you cut into them (a rarity in these microwave-happy times), and the meat is cooked by someone who clearly understands the difference between medium-rare and medieval.

They've also managed to nail the atmosphere, which is no small feat. During football matches, it strikes that elegant balance between lively and lairy - passionate enough to feel authentic, controlled enough to prevent anyone from re-enacting their favorite hooligan documentary. The sound system pipes in music at a volume that actually permits conversation, a concept that seems to have eluded most London establishments.

The outdoor seating area deserves special mention, if only because it doesn't feel like you're dining in a smoking area from 1995. They've created a genuine garden space that's actually pleasant to sit in, complete with heaters that work and umbrellas that don't collapse in a light breeze. Dogs are welcome, which adds that essential element of chaos and charm that every proper pub needs.

For those planning to visit (and yes, I'm reluctantly suggesting you should), The Hanbury accepts cards, including contactless payments - a modern convenience that doesn't detract from its traditional appeal. It gets busy during prime times, especially for Sunday lunch, so booking ahead isn't just recommended, it's practically mandatory unless you enjoy standing around looking hopeful.

Look, I didn't want to like The Hanbury. I really didn't. London has enough "proper pubs" that turn out to be Instagram backdrops with beer taps. But this place has forced me to eat my words (along with an excellent roast dinner). It's managed to preserve the essence of a traditional London pub while quietly upgrading the bits that actually needed upgrading. If you're in Islington and in need of a pint, some proper pub grub, or just a place to remember what London pubs used to be like before they all became chain restaurants with beer lists, The Hanbury is worth your time. Just don't tell them I sent you - I've got a reputation to maintain.