The Guildford Arms

Just what London needs - another gastropub masquerading as the savior of British cuisine. The Guildford Arms in Greenwich swaggers onto the scene with all the familiar trappings: exposed brick walls, carefully curated craft beer selection, and a garden that's supposedly some sort of urban oasis. Roll your eyes with me, won't you?

But damn it all if this place hasn't wormed its way into my cold, cynical heart. I arrived ready to skewer another mediocre London pub attempting to elevate itself beyond beer and chips. Instead, I found myself reluctantly impressed by what The Guildford Arms has accomplished in this corner of Southeast London.

Let's talk about that garden first, because it's annoyingly lovely. While other London pubs offer a couple of wobbling picnic tables next to their bins, The Guildford Arms has created something that actually deserves the term "beer garden." It's thoughtfully landscaped, with enough space between tables that you won't have to share your conversation (or your chips) with neighboring diners. In summer, it's practically worth visiting just to spite the usual London practice of cramming patrons into sweltering indoor spaces.

The food menu is where my professional skepticism really began to crumble. Their Sunday roast - that battleground where so many pubs live or die - is actually worth queuing for. The Yorkshire puddings rise like golden crowns, and the roast potatoes achieve that mythical balance of crispy exterior and fluffy interior that seems to elude so many kitchens. Their treatment of vegetables deserves special mention - the roasted hispi cabbage with kimchi is the kind of dish that makes you question everything you thought you knew about brassicas.

The pricing sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite complain but aren't entirely convinced you couldn't do better elsewhere in Greenwich. Main courses hover around the "this better be good" mark, but portion sizes are generous enough to quiet any grumbling about value. The wine list is similarly pitched - not highway robbery, but you might want to check your bank balance before ordering that second bottle.

Service manages to pull off that difficult balance between attentive and overbearing. The staff seem genuinely happy to be there, which is either excellent acting or good management - possibly both. They're knowledgeable about the menu without being pretentious, and - miracle of miracles - they actually smile. In London. I know, I was shocked too.

They've made the wise decision to welcome both children and dogs, which could be a recipe for chaos but somehow works. The space is large enough that families can coexist with couples on date nights without either party feeling like they've chosen the wrong venue. There's even a children's menu that doesn't assume kids only eat chicken nuggets - a refreshing departure from the usual juvenile fare.

The cocktail program deserves mention, if only because it manages to be innovative without disappearing up its own garnish. Yes, they can make you a proper Negroni, but they also won't judge you for ordering a gin and tonic. The beer selection rotates frequently enough to keep the hop heads interested but maintains enough familiar options for those who just want a reliable pint.

What truly sets The Guildford Arms apart from London's sea of gastropubs is its consistency. The kitchen maintains its standards whether serving a quiet Tuesday lunch or a packed Sunday service. The welcome is equally warm whether you're a regular or a first-timer. It's infuriatingly reliable.

Located in a relatively quiet stretch of Greenwich, The Guildford Arms has become something I never expected to find - a local that's actually worth traveling to. While part of me wants to maintain my professional cynicism, I have to admit defeat. Book a table, especially for Sunday lunch or summer evenings in the garden. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.