The Crown & Cushion

Just what London needs - another pub with delusions of grandeur. The Crown & Cushion in London's increasingly gentrified landscape initially struck me as yet another victim of the capital's relentless pursuit of the perfect gastropub. How wrong I was. And it pains me deeply to admit that.

Let's address the elephant in the room: A London pub serving Thai food upstairs? It sounds like the setup to a mediocre joke told by a tipsy uncle at Christmas. Yet somehow, against all odds and my better judgment, The Crown & Cushion has managed to create something that shouldn't work but absolutely does. It's like finding out your ex-partner's new relationship is actually healthy and functional - irritating, but you can't deny the evidence.

The ground floor maintains its proper pubby credentials with an authenticity that's becoming rarer than a reasonable rent in Zone 1. Dark wood, worn cushions, and a bar staff who actually know how to pour a proper pint of Guinness (a skill seemingly lost to the ages in many London establishments). The prices won't make your wallet weep, which in today's London is practically a revolutionary act.

But it's upstairs where things get interesting. The Thai kitchen produces the kind of food that makes you question everything you thought you knew about pub grub. The Pad See Ew, in particular, is a revelation - the kind of dish that makes you want to time-travel back to your younger, more cynical self and say, "Listen, mate, one day you'll find yourself writing embarrassingly enthusiastic paragraphs about noodles served above a London pub, and you'll be right to do so."

The atmosphere somehow manages to thread the needle between "proper London boozer" and "actually pleasant place to spend an evening." Dogs are welcome, which always earns bonus points in my book, even if it means occasionally sharing your personal space with an overenthusiastic labrador who's equally interested in your Thai fried rice and your affection.

What's particularly irksome is how they've managed to maintain reasonable prices without sacrificing quality. The drinks won't require a second mortgage, and the food portions are generous enough to satisfy even the most demanding value-hunter. In a city where a sandwich and a coffee can cost more than your first car, this feels almost suspicious.

For sports fans, they've got screens showing the matches, but mercifully, they've managed to avoid the common pitfall of turning into a soulless sports bar. It's more like watching with your mates in a particularly well-equipped living room, assuming your living room had better beer selection and professional Thai chefs upstairs.

The outdoor seating area provides a front-row view of London life passing by, though given our climate, it's more of a theoretical amenity for most of the year. Still, those three days of summer when it's actually usable are quite pleasant.

They take cards, support contactless payments, and - in a shocking deviation from traditional London pub protocol - the staff actually seem to enjoy their jobs. I've witnessed genuine smiles that didn't appear to be the result of facial muscle spasms or contractual obligations.

The Crown & Cushion has achieved something remarkably rare in London's pub scene: authenticity without pretension, quality without extortion, and innovation without losing its soul. It's the kind of place that makes you want to keep it secret, but journalistic integrity (and the fact that over a thousand Google reviewers have already let the cat out of the bag) compels me to share.

If you're in London and seeking a pub that delivers more than just empty promises and overpriced pints, The Crown & Cushion deserves your attention. And yes, writing that sentence physically pained me, but sometimes the truth hurts. Just go, order the Pad See Ew, grab a pint, and thank me later. Just don't all go at once - I still need somewhere to drink in peace.