The Coach & Horses

Just what London needs - another pub claiming to reinvent the wheel. The Coach & Horses in Leyton has all the familiar trappings: exposed brick, craft beer taps lined up like soldiers, and that unmistakable mix of vintage charm and calculated hipsterdom. I arrived determined to find fault, armed with years of cynicism about "reimagined" London boozers.

But damn them for making it difficult to maintain my professional disdain.

The first crack in my armor appeared at the bar, where an impressive array of 24 keg and 10 cask taps stood sentinel. Not just the usual suspects either - they've curated a rotating selection that would make even the most jaded beer snob pause mid-eye-roll. The staff, irritatingly knowledgeable without being pretentious, actually seemed to care about what they were pouring. How inconvenient.

I settled into a corner, fully prepared to document the inevitable disappointments of yet another mediocre London pub renovation. The space, annoyingly well-thought-out, manages to balance traditional pub coziness with enough room to breathe. They've kept the original features that matter while dispensing with the sticky carpets and decades of nicotine stains that usually "authenticate" these places.

Look, I wanted to hate the Sunday roast. Really, I did. But when the plate arrived, loaded with properly crispy potatoes (actually properly crispy, not just promised-on-the-menu crispy), it became clear this kitchen knows what they're doing. The rosemary and garlic roasties could make a grown restaurant critic weep - not that I did, mind you. Though the chicken can occasionally venture into dry territory, the pork is consistently excellent. And those Yorkshire puddings... well, let's just say my grandmother would reluctantly approve.

The cocktail program is another irritating success. Classic combinations executed with precision, alongside house creations that somehow avoid the common pitfall of trying too hard. They're priced in that sweet spot where you can't quite complain but aren't being openly robbed - much like the rest of the menu.

For sports fans (I'm not one, but I'm told this matters), they've managed to install screens without turning the place into a replica of Times Square. The sound levels remain civilized enough for actual conversation, which seems almost revolutionary in modern London pub culture.

Dogs are welcome, which means you'll occasionally share space with four-legged patrons. They're usually better behaved than their two-legged companions, particularly during football matches. The outdoor seating area provides a pleasant escape when the interior gets busy, though in typical London fashion, you'll need to master the art of enjoying yourself while wearing three layers in August.

Let's talk about the intangibles - the stuff that shouldn't matter but absolutely does. The staff actually seem to enjoy working here, which creates an atmosphere that's genuine rather than manufactured. It's the kind of place where regulars and first-timers get equal treatment, and nobody's trying too hard to make it "authentic" - it just is.

They take bookings, accept all major forms of payment (including contactless), and maintain civilized opening hours. Basic competence shouldn't be noteworthy, but in London's pub scene, sometimes it feels like it is.

The Coach & Horses sits in that sweet spot between old-school boozer and modern craft beer haven. It's a few minutes' walk from both Leyton underground and Leyton Midland stations, making it dangerously convenient for "just one quick pint" that inevitably turns into several. The proximity to Gravity Well's tap room creates a rather tempting craft beer pilgrimage opportunity.

Fine. I admit it. The Coach & Horses is good. Really good. It's the kind of London pub that reminds you why people still bother going to pubs at all. Book a table for Sunday lunch, grab a pint of something interesting, and prepare to join the ranks of the reluctantly converted. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.