Mother Kelly’s Bethnal Green

Just what East London needed - another craft beer bar masquerading as some sort of beer prophet. Mother Kelly's Bethnal Green sits there in its railway arch, trying desperately to convince us it's not just another hipster hangout where bearded fellows in plaid shirts debate hop profiles. And yet, against my better judgment and journalistic cynicism, I find myself returning to this liquid sanctuary more often than I care to admit.

Let's address the elephant in the railway arch - yes, Mother Kelly's Bethnal Green is literally housed under the rumbling tracks of London's Overground. The industrial-chic aesthetic would be eye-rolling if it weren't so perfectly suited to the space. The wall of fridges glows like some beer-lover's version of the Pearly Gates, housing bottles and cans that would make even the most jaded craft beer enthusiast weak at the knees.

The rotating selection of 22 draft beers could easily veer into pretentious territory, but somehow the staff manages to discuss their ever-changing lineup without making you feel like an idiot if you can't detect the "subtle notes of Madagascan vanilla and Estonian pine needles" in your porter. They actually seem to enjoy helping people find something they'll like, which is refreshingly un-London-like.

I wanted to hate the outdoor seating area. Really, I did. But there's something undeniably pleasant about sipping a perfectly kept Augustiner Helles (yes, the real deal, not the export) while watching the usual Bethnal Green circus unfold before you. The benches and tables create an authentic biergarten feel, though I'm loathe to use the term "authentic" about anything in this part of London.

Here's where things get complicated - the food situation. There isn't much of one. A few cheese and charcuterie boards attempt to soak up the alcohol, but they've rather cleverly turned this potential weakness into a strength by allowing outside food. It's a refreshing admission that they'd rather excel at one thing than serve mediocre pub grub. In an era of venues trying to be all things to all people, this focused approach is... dare I say it... admirable.

The pricing sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite complain but also can't quite forget you're in London. You're paying for quality, sure, but at least you're actually getting it. The staff knows their stuff, and unlike some establishments where you're paying a premium for attitude, here you're paying for expertise and a carefully curated selection.

What really gets me - and I'm annoyed at having to acknowledge this - is the atmosphere. Mother Kelly's Bethnal Green has managed to create that elusive vibe where both serious beer enthusiasts and casual drinkers feel equally at home. Dogs are welcome, sports occasionally grace the screens, and there's enough space to actually have a conversation without shouting or being shouted over. It's infuriatingly well-thought-out.

The payment setup is thoroughly modern (they take everything short of crypto and your firstborn), and you can even book tables, which in London's beer scene is surprisingly civilized. The takeout option means you can grab bottles to go, though this has led to some dangerous impulse purchases of Belgian triples I definitely didn't need.

Look, I didn't want to like Mother Kelly's Bethnal Green. It represents everything that should be wrong with London's craft beer scene - the railway arch location, the industrial decor, the carefully curated selection. But much like that friend who seems perfect on paper and turns out to be genuinely lovely in person, it's hard to maintain any serious grudge against the place.

If you find yourself in this corner of London's East End, whether by choice or circumstance, you might as well surrender to the inevitable and visit Mother Kelly's. The beer selection is exceptional, the staff knows their stuff without being insufferable about it, and the space actually works. Just don't blame me when you find yourself becoming one of those people who can distinguish between New World and Old World hop varieties. You've been warned.