Morpeth Arms

The Morpeth Arms in London isn't just another riverside pub – it's a delicious slice of Victorian espionage served with a side of perfectly pulled pints. Perched proudly on Millbank with views across the Thames to MI6, this historic watering hole once served as a holding cell for prisoners awaiting deportation to Australia. These days, the only thing criminal about the Morpeth Arms is how few Londoners know its fascinating backstory.

Walking into this Grade II listed building feels like stepping through a time portal where modern London melts away into gaslit Victorian intrigue. The worn wooden floors creak with two centuries of stories, while the carefully preserved original features transport you to an era when spies and convicts might have shared bar space (though presumably not willingly). The current regulars are decidedly less nefarious – mostly a mix of civil servants, art lovers fresh from the Tate Britain, and clued-in tourists who've stumbled upon one of London's best-kept secrets.

The real magic of the Morpeth Arms happens in its upstairs "Spying Room," where you can peer through binoculars at the MI6 building while sipping your pint – though I can't guarantee they're not watching you back. It's this playful nod to the area's espionage heritage that sets the pub apart from London's countless other historic boozers. The walls are adorned with fascinating historical tidbits and vintage photographs that'll keep you entertained through several rounds.

Speaking of rounds, the beer selection here strikes that perfect balance between traditional and trendy. The cask ales are kept in pristine condition (a dying art in some London pubs), and the rotating craft options keep things interesting for the hop-heads. While the prices won't make your wallet weep – expect to pay standard central London pub rates – the quality justifies every penny. The staff know their stuff too, happy to guide you through the options without a hint of beer snobbery.

But let's talk about the food because this isn't your average pub grub. The kitchen has mastered that elusive sweet spot between traditional comfort food and modern gastro fare. The fish and chips arrive with perfectly crispy batter protecting flaky, succulent fish. The steak and ale pie could teach masterclasses in how proper pub pies should be done. And those Brie bites? They're the kind of bar snack that ruins you for all other bar snacks.

The atmosphere shifts seamlessly throughout the day. Lunchtimes buzz with workers escaping their desks, while evenings see a mellower crowd settling in for proper conversations – remember those? The lighting stays low enough to be cozy but bright enough to actually see your companions' faces (a surprisingly rare balance in London pubs). And unlike some historic pubs that can feel a bit stuffy, the Morpeth Arms manages to wear its heritage lightly.

Dog owners, rejoice – your four-legged friends are welcome here, and the staff are known to keep treats behind the bar. The pub's also gained a reputation for its ghost stories, with various staff members reporting mysterious footsteps in empty rooms and unexplained cold spots. Whether you believe in spirits of the supernatural kind or prefer those in a glass, it adds another layer of intrigue to the experience.

For the practically minded, they take cards (including contactless), and while there's no dedicated parking, you're well-served by public transport. Pimlico tube station is a short walk away, and several bus routes stop nearby. Book ahead if you're planning to come with a group – the pub's popularity with locals means it can fill up quickly, especially during peak times.

The Morpeth Arms stands as proof that London's best experiences often hide in plain sight. It's where history buffs can geek out over deportation records, spy enthusiasts can play at reconnaissance, and everyone else can simply enjoy a proper pint in surroundings that feel special without trying too hard. Next time you're near the Tate Britain or just fancy a pub with a bit more personality than your local, make your way to Millbank. Just don't blame me if you end up spending hours longer than planned – between the stories, the spirits (both kinds), and the surprisingly good food, the Morpeth Arms has a way of making time disappear faster than a spy with a good cover story.