Horse & Groom

Tucked away on Great Portland Street, the Horse & Groom in London is what happens when Victorian splendor meets proper pub culture, minus the tourist-trap theatrics. This Samuel Smith's establishment has been serving thirsty Londoners since the late 18th century, and while the building got a fancy new outfit in 1856, it's managed to keep its soul intact – something increasingly rare in central London's ever-evolving landscape.

Let's address the elephant in the room: yes, this is one of those "no phones, no laptops, no modern nonsense" Sam Smith's pubs. But before you roll your eyes and reach for your smartphone, consider this – when was the last time you had a proper conversation in a pub without someone checking their Instagram? The Horse & Groom in London's bustling Fitzrovia district might just be the digital detox you never knew you needed.

Step through either of the beautifully tiled entrances (go on, admire those original Victorian details – they're not making them like this anymore), and you're greeted by a black and white checkered floor that wouldn't look out of place in a chess champion's dream sequence. The main bar stretches out before you in an elegant 'L' shape, its ornate servery gleaming with the kind of pride that comes from centuries of polishing. The wall of etched glass mirrors plays tricks with the light, making the space feel both intimate and endless – a neat architectural sleight of hand that the Victorians perfected.

But the real magic happens as you explore further. Through the main bar, you'll discover a series of interconnected rooms that feel like they're straight out of a period drama, minus the stuffiness. There's a dart room where locals still maintain their weekly rivalries, and a vaulted snug complete with a fireplace that roars to life during London's chillier months. The banquettes, upholstered in rich fabrics that would make a Victorian parlor proud, invite you to sink in and stay awhile.

Venture upstairs, and you'll find yourself in a carpeted dining room that feels more like a private club than a public house. The smaller servery up here features an old-school brass-framed sandwich counter that's practically begging to be photographed – though remember, photos are a no-no here. It's all part of the charm, really.

Now, about the drinks. Samuel Smith's runs this show, which means you won't find your usual suspects behind the bar. Instead, you'll discover their own-brand offerings, from their signature Taddy Lager to their surprisingly good stout. Yes, there's no real ale (cask enthusiasts, I hear your grumbling), but the quality of what's on offer might just convert you. They take their beer seriously here – expect a generous head on your pint, it's house policy. And while the prices might be a touch higher than some local alternatives, they're still firmly in the "won't break the bank" territory, especially considering the central London location.

The pub's proximity to Oxford Circus (just a five-minute walk) makes it an ideal escape from the retail chaos of Oxford Street. Yet somehow, it manages to feel worlds away from the tourist crowds. The atmosphere shifts throughout the day – quiet and contemplative during lunch hours, gradually building to a comfortable buzz as office workers and locals filter in for evening drinks.

One of the Horse & Groom's most charming quirks is its commitment to conversation. Without the usual background music or the glow of screens, you'll hear something increasingly rare in London pubs: actual chatter. The friendly Australian gents behind the bar are always good for a story or two, and they run this place with the kind of genuine hospitality that makes you want to become a regular.

For anyone seeking an authentic slice of London pub life, the Horse & Groom delivers in spades. It's where you can experience a proper British pub as it should be – no gimmicks, no pretense, just good drinks in a historic setting that oozes character from every Victorian tile. Next time you're near Oxford Circus and need a reminder of why London's pubs are world-famous, duck into the Horse & Groom. Just remember to leave your phone in your pocket – trust me, you won't miss it.