Fox & Anchor

Just what London needs - another supposedly "authentic" pub trying to cash in on ye olde British charm. The Fox & Anchor in London's Smithfield area initially struck me as yet another tourist trap wrapped in Victorian mahogany and brass. You know the type: claiming centuries of heritage while serving microwaved shepherd's pie to camera-wielding visitors who think they've discovered "real London."

I was wrong. God, I hate admitting that.

The Fox & Anchor has somehow managed to do the impossible - maintain genuine character while serving food that doesn't make you question your life choices. The building itself, with its Art Nouveau tiles and gleaming bar fixtures, dates back to 1898, and unlike many London pubs that have been stripped of their soul by corporate renovation teams, this one wears its history with unforced grace.

The first crack in my cynical armor appeared during their morning service. Yes, morning - because this is one of those rare London pubs that opens at 7am to serve the Smithfield Market workers. There's something powerfully authentic about sitting at a worn wooden table at dawn, watching butchers and traders shuffle in for their morning pint (a tradition I'd normally mock but somehow feels right here).

Their full English breakfast (served until 11am) is irritatingly good. The black pudding isn't some mass-produced horror, but properly crafted stuff that makes you reconsider your stance on blood sausage. The eggs are actually free-range, not just labeled as such, and the mushrooms taste like they've seen actual soil rather than styrofoam packaging.

The Sunday roast - that battleground where so many London pubs go to die - is another reluctant triumph. The Yorkshire pudding arrives looking like some sort of megalithic monument, and unlike most places where size compensates for substance, it's properly made - crisp edges, soft center, not a hint of sogginess. The roast beef is pink enough to make traditionalists nod approvingly but not so rare it'll frighten the tourists.

Let's talk about the beer selection, because they've managed to get this right too, damn them. The cask ales are kept properly - at cellar temperature, not fraudulently "cellar-style" temperature. They rotate regularly, and the staff actually know what they're serving, which shouldn't be remarkable but somehow is in modern London.

The rooms upstairs (because yes, you can stay here) are surprisingly comfortable without falling into the boutique hotel cliches that plague so many London pub accommodations. They've managed to keep the historical features while adding actually functional bathrooms - a concept that seems to elude many similar establishments.

Dogs are welcome, which usually sets off my "trying too hard to be casual" alarm, but here it just works. Maybe because the regulars' dogs look like they actually belong rather than being Instagram props.

The pricing sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite complain but aren't being egregiously robbed. Main courses hover around the London average, and the portions are generous enough that you won't need to stop for a kebab on the way home.

The Fox & Anchor has achieved something remarkable in London's dining landscape - it's a pub that actually feels like a pub, serves food that actually tastes like food, and maintains an atmosphere that doesn't feel like it was focus-grouped to death.

Fine. I'll say it. You should go to the Fox & Anchor when you're in London. Book ahead for Sunday lunch, arrive early for breakfast, and prepare to be annoyed at how little there is to be annoyed about. Just don't blame me when you find yourself becoming one of those irritating people who's found their "local" in central London. I've already become one, and I'm not even sorry anymore.