Bunkers Bar and Restaurant

Just what Kenmare needed - another pub-slash-restaurant with delusions of grandeur. Bunkers Bar and Restaurant sits there on the main drag, practically begging tourists to wander in with its siren song of "authentic Irish experience." I rolled my eyes so hard they nearly got stuck when I first walked past. But like a cynical food critic's version of Pride and Prejudice, I found myself reluctantly charmed against my better judgment.

Let's address the elephant in the room - yes, Bunkers Bar and Restaurant in Kenmare is yet another establishment trying to bridge the gap between traditional pub and proper restaurant. Usually, these places end up being mediocre at both. But here's where my carefully cultivated skepticism started to crack: they actually pull it off.

The interior hits that sweet spot between cozy pub atmosphere and restaurant refinement without feeling like it's trying too hard. It's like running into someone wearing expensive clothes who actually knows how to carry them off. The space manages to be both welcoming to locals dropping in for a pint and appropriate for tourists seeking a proper meal. I hate that I'm impressed by this balancing act.

The staff, annoyingly, make it impossible to maintain my professional distance. They navigate the fine line between Irish hospitality and efficiency with an ease that suggests either excellent training or genuine personality - possibly both, which is even more irritating. They remember returning customers' orders, for heaven's sake. Who does that anymore?

Now, about the food. I arrived armed with every intention of writing a scathing review about another tourist trap serving mediocre pub grub at inflated prices. Instead, I found myself confronted with dishes that showed actual thought and execution. The sirloin steak (which I ordered rare, the true test of any kitchen's confidence) arrived exactly as requested, with a pepper sauce that somehow elevated rather than masked the meat's quality. Their fish and chips - usually the last resort of the unadventurous diner - manages to be both crispy and substantial, without a hint of the greasiness that plagues lesser establishments.

The burger deserves its own paragraph, if only because it's restored my faith in pub burgers after years of mediocrity. It arrives looking like something from a food photographer's portfolio but tastes like it was made by someone who actually understands what makes a burger great. The accompanying onion rings should be illegal - they're that addictive.

What's particularly vexing is their attention to dietary requirements. The staff actually knows what's in the food they're serving, and the kitchen appears capable of adapting dishes without turning them into sad, flavorless alternatives. As someone who's witnessed countless eye-rolls from servers when faced with dietary requests, this level of competence is both refreshing and suspicious.

The pricing sits firmly in the "reasonable" category, which makes it harder to maintain my cynicism. You're not being fleeced, but you're not getting bargain basement prices either. It's fair value for what you're getting, which is arguably the most annoying price point for a critic - there's nothing to complain about.

They've got live music some nights, outdoor seating for those three days of Irish summer, and enough screens to catch the match without turning the place into a sports bar. The parking situation is surprisingly manageable for a central Kenmare location, though you might have to circle the block once or twice during peak tourist season.

Look, I didn't want to like Bunkers Bar and Restaurant in Kenmare. I really didn't. But much like finding out that your annoying colleague actually makes excellent coffee and tells decent jokes, resistance becomes futile. If you must eat in Kenmare (and let's face it, you do need to eat somewhere), you might as well do it here. Book ahead during high season - not because I'm telling you to, but because everyone else has already figured out what I'm reluctantly admitting: this place is actually worth your time and money.