Wrights Findlater Howth

Just what Dublin needed - another seafood spot in Howth claiming to serve the freshest catch this side of the Irish Sea. Wrights Findlater Howth sits there on the harbor like it owns the place, all historic building charm and ocean views, practically daring you not to be charmed by it. And wouldn't you know it? Despite my best efforts to maintain professional cynicism, I found myself reluctantly impressed.

Let's address the elephant in the room - yes, it's in tourist central. The moment you step into Wrights Findlater Howth, you half expect to be handed a "Kiss Me, I'm Irish" t-shirt along with your menu. But here's the thing: they actually know what they're doing with seafood. Their fish and chips - that most predictable of Irish pub offerings - somehow manages to be both crispy and succulent, like they've struck some Faustian bargain with the cod gods.

The building itself is something of a local landmark, with those sweeping harbor views that make you forget you're sharing space with camera-wielding tourists fresh off the DART from central Dublin. The interior strikes that delicate balance between traditional pub comfort and restaurant refinement - no easy feat when you're trying to please both the "just a pint" crowd and the "anniversary dinner" set.

Speaking of which, the bar program deserves mention. While I approached their cocktail list with the skepticism it deserved (this is a seafood pub, after all), their mixologists apparently didn't get the memo that they're supposed to be mediocre. The drinks are actually... good. There, I said it. Their Irish Coffee doesn't taste like it was made by someone who just learned what coffee is yesterday.

The seafood chowder - a dish I've consumed enough of around Dublin to develop a serious love-hate relationship with - is surprisingly complex. Rich without being heavy, creamy without drowning the seafood, and seasoned by someone who apparently knows that salt and pepper aren't the only spices in existence. It's the kind of dish that makes you angry because now you'll have to admit to friends that yes, the tourist spot actually serves good food.

Service manages to hit that sweet spot between Irish hospitality and actual efficiency - a combination as rare as a sunny day in Dublin. During peak hours, they handle the crowds with surprising grace, though you might want to make a reservation unless waiting at the bar for an hour is your idea of fun (though with their Guinness pour, you could do worse).

The price point sits squarely in the "you're not being robbed, but you're definitely paying for the view" category. Portions are generous enough that you won't need to stop for a chip shop crawl afterward, which is something of a miracle in tourist-heavy Howth. The menu walks the line between approachable pub grub and more ambitious seafood dishes, meaning you can bring both your foodie friend and your meat-and-potatoes cousin without either one staging a revolt.

For families, they've managed to create an atmosphere that welcomes children without making the child-free among us feel like we've accidentally wandered into a playground. The kids' menu offers actual food rather than the usual frozen nugget parade, and they even provide crayons - though whether this is a blessing or a curse depends entirely on your proximity to the young artists.

Live music features regularly, and unlike many venues where "live music" means "time to leave," the performers here generally know their craft. It adds atmosphere rather than requiring you to shout your order across the table, which in Dublin's pub scene is practically a miracle.

Look, I wanted to dismiss Wrights Findlater Howth as just another tourist trap in Dublin's seaside playground. But between the consistently well-executed food, the legitimately good service, and those annoyingly gorgeous views, I have to admit defeat. If you must do the whole Howth experience - and let's face it, you're going to - you could do far worse than grabbing a table here. Just don't tell them I sent you. I have a reputation to maintain.