The William

Just what London needs - another gastropub masquerading as the savior of British drinking culture. The William in London initially struck me as yet another tired attempt to dress up a perfectly decent boozer in fancy clothes it didn't ask for. You know the type: exposed brick walls that practically scream "we're authentic!", craft beer lists longer than War and Peace, and menu prices that make you wonder if they're charging by the syllable.

But damn it all if this place hasn't wormed its way into my reluctantly expanding heart.

Let's start with the building itself, because The William occupies one of those gorgeous London structures that makes you feel like you've stumbled into a Dickens novel, minus the questionable sanitation and child labor. The historical facade stands proud among the local architecture, looking rather pleased with itself - and rightfully so, I suppose.

The interior strikes that infuriatingly perfect balance between cozy pub and modern dining space. During daylight hours, the place is flooded with natural light that makes everyone look like they're starring in their own Instagram story. By night, it transforms into something altogether more intimate, with lighting levels that actually allow you to read the menu without squinting or employing your phone's torch function - a courtesy that seems increasingly rare in London's dining scene.

Now, about that menu. I arrived determined to find fault with it, armed with my usual skepticism about gastropub fare. The prices sit squarely in the "I can afford it but I'm going to complain anyway" category, which is precisely where most London pubs with culinary aspirations position themselves these days. But here's the rub - the food is actually, frustratingly good.

The chicken schnitzel, in particular, is a thing of beauty. Crispy without being greasy, substantial without being overwhelming, and served with accompaniments that suggest someone in the kitchen actually gives a damn about what they're doing. The Sunday roast (yes, I went back - don't judge me) comes in a bowl, which initially had me rolling my eyes so hard I could see my own brain. Yet somehow, this seemingly pretentious presentation works, though I'll deny saying this if quoted directly.

Let's talk about the drinks because this is still a pub, after all. The beer selection is comprehensive without being overwhelming, and while the prices might make your wallet whimper slightly, the quality justifies the cost - barely. The wine list is surprisingly decent, and the cocktails are crafted with enough care to warrant their existence in what is, fundamentally, a pub.

The service deserves a mention, if only because it manages to achieve that elusive British pub balance: attentive enough that you're not left dying of thirst, yet relaxed enough that you don't feel like you're being hover-stalked by an overenthusiastic waiter. During busy periods, yes, things can slow down to a pace that would frustrate a snail, but show me a London pub that doesn't suffer from this particular affliction during peak times.

They've got a private room for events, which I'm told is quite popular for celebrations. The corkage fees won't force you to take out a second mortgage, and they're surprisingly accommodating about special requests - including the bringing in of outside cakes, which in some London establishments is treated with the same suspicion as attempting to smuggle in nuclear materials.

Dog-friendly, group-friendly, and even friendly-friendly, The William has managed to create an atmosphere that works for both casual pints and proper dining. The outdoor seating area provides a prime spot for people-watching, though London's weather ensures this pleasure is often more theoretical than practical.

Here's the thing about The William in London - it's not trying to reinvent the wheel. Instead, it's taken the tried-and-true gastropub formula and executed it with enough skill and attention to detail that even a jaded critic finds themselves becoming a regular. Trust me, I tried very hard not to like it. But if you're in the area and in need of a reliable spot for anything from a quick pint to a proper meal, you'll find yourself here. And despite my best efforts to maintain my professional cynicism, I suspect you'll be back too. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.