The Waterfront

Just what London needs - another riverside pub with delusions of grandeur. The Waterfront in London sits there smugly along the Thames, beckoning tourists and locals alike with its promise of "river views" (yes, water exists, how revolutionary) and "proper pub grub" (their words, not mine). I approached with the enthusiasm of someone getting a root canal, fully prepared to add it to my mental list of mediocre Thames-side establishments.

But damn it all if The Waterfront didn't start to wear me down. Like that annoying person at a party who turns out to be surprisingly witty, this place has an irritating way of making you revise your initial judgment. The first crack in my cynical armor appeared when I realized the riverside seating wasn't just an afterthought - they've actually managed to create a space where you can enjoy your pint without feeling like you're about to be swept into the Thames during high tide.

The interior strikes that elusive balance between "pub that's seen better days" and "trying too hard to be posh" - landing somewhere in the sweet spot of actually comfortable. The wood paneling isn't trying to convince you it was salvaged from Henry VIII's personal beer cellar, and the seats don't make you pine for a chiropractor's number.

Let's talk about the food because that's where The Waterfront really starts showing off. Their Sunday roast (which I ordered purely for journalistic integrity, mind you) arrived looking like it was ready for its Instagram debut. The beef was pink enough to make a vegetarian blush, and the Yorkshire pudding had the architectural integrity of a small cathedral. The gravy - and I can't believe I'm writing this - actually tasted like it had never seen the inside of a Bisto packet.

The regular menu continues this annoying trend of competence. The fish and chips don't taste like they've been on speaking terms with a freezer, and the steak... well, let's just say the chef knows their way around a piece of beef better than most gastropubs charging twice the price. It's all irritatingly well-executed, forcing me to abandon my carefully cultivated skepticism.

Their drink selection refuses to fall into the usual London pub trap of "three mass-market lagers and warm wine." The beer list includes some actually interesting local brews, and the wine selection suggests someone with taste buds made the choices, not just someone with a wholesale catalog and a dart board.

The service manages to hit that sweet spot between overly chummy and metropolitan aloofness. The staff seem genuinely interested in making sure you're having a good time, without making you feel like you're being inducted into a cult. They know their menu, they know their drinks, and - most importantly - they know when to leave you alone to enjoy both.

Price-wise, it sits in that frustrating territory of being just reasonable enough that you can't really complain. Yes, you're paying London prices, but at least here you're getting London quality to match. The Sunday roast won't require a second mortgage, and the regular menu prices won't send you into cardiac arrest - though they might raise an eyebrow if you're visiting from anywhere north of Watford.

The Waterfront manages to pull off another rare feat for a London riverside establishment - it actually works for both tourists and locals. The former get their Thames views and proper British pub experience, while the latter get a reliable spot for a decent meal and a well-kept pint. The dog-friendly policy means you'll occasionally share space with four-legged patrons, but they're generally better behaved than most of the two-legged variety you'll find in central London pubs.

Look, I didn't want to like The Waterfront. I really didn't. London has enough decent pubs, and the last thing I needed was another one to add to my rotation. But here I am, grudgingly admitting that this place has earned its spot among the city's better riverside establishments. Whether you're in the area for a wandering Sunday afternoon or planning a specific visit, The Waterfront in London deserves your attention. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.