The Salusbury Pub & Dining Room

Just what London needed - another gastropub masquerading as the savior of British cuisine. The Salusbury Pub & Dining Room in Queen's Park had me rolling my eyes before I even crossed the threshold. Another historic London pub given the mandatory makeover treatment, complete with the requisite exposed brick and carefully curated "vintage" memorabilia. How utterly predictable.

But damn them for actually getting it right.

I wanted to hate the recent renovation, I really did. Yet somehow they've managed to thread that impossibly fine needle between preserving proper pub character and creating a space that doesn't feel like it's trying too hard to be Instagram-worthy. The interior strikes that elusive sweet spot where both your craft beer-obsessed cousin and your traditionalist grandfather would feel equally at home. It's annoyingly well-executed.

The beer selection is extensive without being pretentious - a feat that deserves recognition in today's London pub scene where every establishment seems determined to stock the most obscure microbrewery offerings they can find. Here, you'll find both perfectly kept traditional ales and interesting craft options, all served by staff who actually know what they're talking about rather than just reciting tasting notes they memorized that morning.

Let's talk about the food, shall we? The menu walks a similar tightrope between pub classics and more ambitious fare. Their pizza (yes, pizza in a pub, I know) shouldn't work, but it does - especially that mushroom number with truffle oil that I'm still thinking about weeks later. It's the kind of dish that makes you question your own cynicism. The prices won't make your wallet weep, though they're not exactly giving it away either. But in a city where mediocre pub meals regularly cost a small fortune, the value proposition here is surprisingly reasonable.

The service deserves special mention, if only because it's restored a bit of my faith in humanity. In an era where genuine hospitality seems increasingly rare, the staff here manage to be both professional and authentically personable. They remember regulars' names and preferences without the corporate-mandated faux-friendliness that plagues so many establishments. It's almost suspicious how genuine they are.

The outdoor seating area is another reluctant triumph. While many London pubs treat their gardens as an afterthought, The Salusbury has created a space that works in both summer sunshine and winter drizzle (this is Britain, after all). They've even managed to make it dog-friendly without turning it into a canine chaos zone.

For groups, they offer reservable spaces that somehow avoid the usual "sorry, you'll be crammed into our sad function room" scenario. The main dining room maintains its atmosphere even when full, which is no small achievement. And yes, they can handle larger parties without the kitchen falling to pieces - I've witnessed this minor miracle firsthand.

The wine list deserves mention, if only because it's clearly been assembled by someone who actually understands wine rather than just copying and pasting from a wholesaler's catalog. The cocktail program, too, shows surprising competence without veering into mixology madness.

Look, I didn't want to like The Salusbury Pub & Dining Room. As a London food critic, I'm contractually obligated to be skeptical of any pub renovation that claims to elevate the genre while respecting its roots. But here we are. They've managed to create something that actually works - a proper London pub that serves genuinely good food, keeps an excellent cellar, and somehow maintains its soul in the process.

If you find yourself in this corner of London (and yes, it's worth the journey even if you don't), do yourself a favor and give it a try. Just don't tell them I sent you. I have a reputation to maintain, and my grudging endorsement of The Salusbury has already done enough damage to my carefully cultivated cynicism.