The Pilot, Chiswick

Just what Chiswick needed - another gastropub with delusions of grandeur. The Pilot in London's well-heeled west has joined the ever-growing ranks of establishments trying to convince us that paying north of £15 for fish and chips somehow constitutes a revolutionary dining experience. And yet, against my better judgment and decades of cultivated cynicism, I find myself grudgingly impressed.

Let's address the elephant in the beer garden - The Pilot Chiswick isn't reinventing the wheel. It's doing that familiar dance of traditional pub meets modern sensibilities, a choreography we've seen countless times across London. But here's the thing: they're actually pulling it off with a surprising amount of grace.

The space itself deserves mention, if only because it manages to avoid the copy-paste aesthetic that plagues so many London pubs. The Pilot has maintained enough of its original character to feel authentic, while the renovations have been executed with unexpected restraint. The result is a pub that feels both lived-in and looked-after - a harder balance to strike than you might think.

Their outdoor seating area is, I hate to admit, rather lovely. On a sunny day (yes, London occasionally has those), it's the kind of space that makes you forget you're sitting next to one of the city's busier thoroughfares. The fact that they welcome dogs is either a blessing or a curse, depending on your tolerance for enthusiastic golden retrievers trying to share your Sunday roast.

Speaking of food - and I can't believe I'm saying this - it's actually good. Not "good for pub food" with all the damning faint praise that implies, but genuinely good. The kitchen seems to understand that gastropub cuisine doesn't need to be an exercise in pretension. Yes, you'll pay more than you would at your average boozer, but at least here you can taste where the money went.

The bar program deserves particular mention, if only because they've managed to maintain a proper pub's drink selection while adding enough craft options to keep the beard-stroking contingent happy. The wine list is surprisingly well-considered, though if you're the type to order wine in a pub, we need to have a different conversation entirely.

Live music shows up occasionally, and unlike most pub entertainment, it doesn't make you want to flee to the nearest silent monastery. The staff seem to actually enjoy their jobs - a miracle in London hospitality - and their knowledge of both food and drinks suggests training beyond the "here's how to work the till" variety.

Now for the practical bits: they take reservations (thank god), accept all major payment methods (including that contactless nonsense for those who've forgotten what cash feels like), and there's actually decent parking nearby - both free and paid, depending on your luck and timing. The function room upstairs handles groups without making them feel like they've been banished to Siberia, and the main space manages to be both cozy and spacious enough that you're not sharing your conversation with the entire pub.

Is it perfect? Of course not. Sometimes the kitchen gets a bit too ambitious for its own good, and yes, you'll pay more than you would at some other local options. The popularity means weekend evenings can get properly rammed, and the "good for watching sports" designation depends entirely on where you're sitting and how tall the person in front of you is.

But here's the truly irritating part - The Pilot Chiswick has managed to become exactly what a modern London pub should be. It's maintained its soul while upgrading its offerings, created a space that works for both quick pints and proper meals, and somehow avoided becoming yet another soulless chain operation.

So fine, The Pilot, you win. You've forced me to recommend a pub in Chiswick, something I never thought I'd do sober. Book ahead for weekend evenings, bring your dog if you have one (or borrow one - this is Chiswick, after all), and prepare to spend more than you planned to. Just don't blame me when it becomes your new local - I tried to be cynical, I really did.