The Overdraught Restaurant & Pub

Just what Carrigaline needed - another pub masquerading as a gastropub. The Overdraught Restaurant & Pub had me rolling my eyes before I even crossed the threshold. The name alone is trying too hard, with that clever little banking pun that probably took someone weeks to dream up over their morning Weetabix.

But damn it all if this place hasn't wormed its way into my reluctantly expanding list of "Places I'd Actually Return To In Cork County." The Overdraught in Carrigaline has pulled off that rarest of feats - delivering on its promises without drowning in its own pretensions.

Let's talk about the space first, because whoever designed it deserves a slow clap for managing to walk the razor's edge between "cozy Irish pub" and "contemporary dining venue" without falling into either cliché. No leprechauns throwing up shamrocks here, thank heavens, but enough traditional touches to remind you you're not in some soulless Dublin chain restaurant.

The menu had me prepared for the usual suspects - you know, the frozen-then-fried offerings that plague so many establishments trying to be all things to all people. But the kitchen at The Overdraught apparently didn't get the memo about mediocrity being acceptable. Their fish and chips (because of course I had to try the pub classic) arrived with fish so fresh it was practically still swimming, encased in a batter that actually tasted of something other than cooking oil. The chips? Hand-cut, twice-cooked, and seasoned by someone who understands salt is a seasoning, not a punishment.

What's particularly infuriating is how they manage to maintain quality across the menu. The steak sandwich isn't just a piece of meat stuffed between bread - it's a properly considered composition, with caramelized onions that must have taken hours to reach that perfect sweetness. Even the side salad (usually the sad afterthought of pub food) shows signs of actual human attention.

The staff, curse them, are genuinely friendly without that artificial "corporate manual" cheeriness. They know their menu, they know their drinks, and - most importantly - they know when to leave you alone with your pint. Speaking of which, the beer selection strikes that sweet spot between craft beer snobbery and "we only serve what's on the Diageo list."

Parents, brace yourselves - they actually know how to handle children here. The kids' menu isn't an insult to young palates, and they bring the children's food out first without being asked. It's like they've actually met small humans before.

The pricing sits in that zone where you initially think "bit steep for a pub" but then the food arrives and you grudgingly admit it's justified. You're not paying Dublin prices for Cork portions, thank goodness, but neither is it cheap enough to make you suspicious of where they're sourcing their ingredients.

The outdoor seating area - because apparently every establishment needs one now - actually works. They've managed to create a space that doesn't feel like you're dining in a car park, which is more than I can say for some places charging twice as much.

For those keeping score at home: yes, they take reservations (and actually honor them), the parking situation won't drive you to drink before you even get inside, and they've mastered the art of proper heating and ventilation - a surprisingly rare achievement in Irish establishments.

Look, I didn't want to like The Overdraught Restaurant & Pub in Carrigaline. I wanted to dismiss it as another wannabe gastropub jumping on the "elevated dining experience" bandwagon. But here I am, actually recommending that you make the trip. Book ahead for dinner - the locals have unfortunately discovered it too. Go for lunch if you're planning on having a proper conversation; the evening atmosphere leans more toward lively than library.

And yes, I'm as surprised as you are to find myself saying this, but The Overdraught has earned its place as one of Carrigaline's essential dining destinations. Just don't tell them I said that - we can't have them getting complacent, can we?