The Morehampton

Just what Dublin needs - another pub claiming to be the perfect blend of traditional and contemporary. The Morehampton sits there in its Donnybrook location, practically begging to be dismissed as yet another attempt to cash in on the city's seemingly inexhaustible appetite for places to drink and dine. I walked in fully prepared to hate it. Spoiler alert: I failed.

Let's address the elephant in the room - The Morehampton's recent renovation. Usually, when Dublin pubs get "updated," it means stripping away every ounce of character and replacing it with generic Instagram-friendly decor that looks dated faster than last year's Love Island contestants. But somehow, they've managed to pull off the impossible: maintaining that coveted pub soul while dragging it into the 21st century.

The front area floods with natural light - a concept traditionally forbidden in Irish pubs - while the darker snug area maintains that conspiratorial atmosphere perfect for afternoon pints and whispered gossip. It's like they've created a mullet of pub design: business in the front, party in the back. And somehow, against all odds, it works.

Now, about the food. I approached the menu with the skepticism of someone who's suffered through too many gastropub experiments gone wrong. The offerings are extensive - suspiciously so. In my experience, menus this size usually mean a freezer full of pre-made mediocrity. But here's where The Morehampton started to crack my cynical exterior.

The kitchen actually knows what it's doing. Their fish and chips - while not the most generous portion I've encountered (yes, I'm looking at you, €19 plate) - is executed with surprising finesse. The vegetarian options aren't just afterthoughts, which is refreshing in a city where many pubs still think a sad cheese sandwich counts as vegetarian cuisine. And the desserts? Well, let's just say my resolve to maintain professional detachment completely crumbled somewhere between the first and third bite.

The drink selection deserves mention, if only because they've managed to strike that delicate balance between craft beer pretension and traditional pub offerings. Their Aperol Spritz - a drink I typically associate with wannabe influencers trying to look sophisticated - is annoyingly good. The cocktail menu shows actual thought rather than just copying and pasting from the "Standard Dublin Cocktail Menu" template that seems to circulate among bars.

Service here does that rare thing of being attentive without hovering, friendly without forcing banter. The staff actually seems to care, which in today's hospitality climate is about as rare as an affordable pint in Temple Bar. There's a genuine warmth to the place that can't be faked - believe me, I've seen enough attempts.

The pricing sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite call it a bargain, but you also can't complain too loudly about being ripped off. It's standard Dublin prices, which means your wallet will feel it, but at least you're getting something worthwhile in return. The food quality justifies most of the cost, even if some portions could be more generous.

For families, they've done something rather clever - created a space where you can bring the kids without feeling like you're in a children's restaurant. There's a proper children's menu, not just smaller portions of adult meals at adult prices. It's actually possible to have a civilized meal while small humans are present, which is no small feat.

The Morehampton has become something I never expected to find in modern Dublin: a pub that actually improves the neighborhood rather than just capitalizing on it. Whether you're dropping in for a quick lunch, settling in for evening cocktails, or planning a family dinner, it manages to fit the bill without feeling like it's trying too hard to be all things to all people.

Look, I didn't want to like The Morehampton. I really didn't. But sometimes you have to admit defeat and acknowledge when something is simply done right. Book a table - yes, you can actually make reservations, welcome to civilization - and see for yourself. Just don't blame me when it becomes your new regular spot in Dublin. I tried to stay cynical, but some places make it impossible.