The Mitre

Just what London needs - another pub claiming to be a "local gem" in Richmond. The Mitre's been getting an awful lot of buzz lately, and I approached with my usual skepticism. After all, how many times have I trudged across this city chasing the promise of "proper ales" only to find mediocrity on tap?

But damn it all if The Mitre hasn't wormed its way into my cold, cynical heart. Tucked away from Richmond's tourist-packed center, it's the kind of place that makes you question whether you've become too jaded for your own good. The constantly rotating selection of real ales (seven cask, four keg, if you're counting) is curated with the kind of obsessive attention usually reserved for rare vinyl collections or vintage watches.

I'll admit it - I rolled my eyes when I heard about their pizza menu. Because that's exactly what London needs, right? Another pub jumping on the artisanal pizza bandwagon. But here's the infuriating part: they're actually good. Not "good for pub pizza" good, but legitimately, irritatingly good. The dough balls (which I ordered purely to have something to mock) are dangerously addictive. It's like they're deliberately trying to make me eat my words along with my dinner.

The space itself strikes that maddening balance between traditional pub comfort and actual functionality - something many London establishments seem to think is an either/or proposition. The wisteria-covered outdoor area provides a rather lovely escape from city chaos, though I'm loathe to use the word "lovely" in a professional review. The interior manages to be both cozy and spacious, with none of that artificial vintage nonsense that plagues so many renovated pubs.

What's particularly vexing is the staff's genuine knowledge about their beer selection. In an era where many bartenders can barely distinguish ale from lager, The Mitre's team displays an enthusiasm that borders on geeky - and I mean that as a reluctant compliment. They're happy to guide you through the ever-changing tap list without a hint of condescension, which is refreshingly unusual in London's craft beer scene.

The pricing sits squarely in the "fair enough" category - not cheap enough to make you suspicious, not expensive enough to trigger a rant about London's cost of living crisis. You'll pay what you'd expect for quality ales and proper pizza in Richmond, which is to say more than in Hull but less than in Chelsea.

The dog-friendly policy means you'll occasionally share space with four-legged patrons, but even this potential annoyance is well-managed. The layout ensures that those seeking a quiet pint won't be disturbed by the occasional enthusiastic tail-wagger. Live music features occasionally, though mercifully without the volume levels that make conversation impossible - a concept seemingly foreign to many London pubs.

Here's the truly irritating part: The Mitre actually delivers on the whole "local pub with higher aspirations" premise without falling into the usual traps. It hasn't sacrificed character for convenience, nor tradition for trend. The place manages to be both a proper pub and a viable food destination, which shouldn't work but somehow does.

For those keeping score at home, yes, those glowing Google reviews are annoyingly accurate. The Mitre has achieved that rarest of feats - living up to its online reputation. You'll find it at the quieter end of Richmond, away from the Instagram crowds by the river, which is precisely where it should be.

Look, I didn't want to like The Mitre. I went in armed with a notebook full of potential criticisms and left with a list of reluctant compliments instead. If you're in London and find yourself in Richmond, do yourself a favor and visit The Mitre. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.