The Malt Shovel

Just what London needs - another canal-side pub attempting to blend ye olde charm with modern gastropub pretensions. The Malt Shovel sits there smugly along the Union Canal, practically begging you to fall for its calculated rustic appeal. And damn it all, I'm irritated to report that I kind of have.

Let's get the eye-rolling bits out of the way first. Yes, there are the obligatory exposed beams. Yes, there's a massive fireplace that makes you want to curl up with a pint even in the middle of July. And yes, they've managed to perfect that infuriatingly cozy atmosphere that makes you forget you're paying London prices for what is, essentially, pub grub. But here's the thing - they've actually done it rather well.

I arrived determined to hate The Malt Shovel's canal-side setting as tourist-bait nonsense. Instead, I found myself reluctantly enchanted by the passing barges and the gentle rippling of water, like some character in a Richard Curtis film having their cynical heart melted. The outdoor seating area - when London's famously reliable weather permits - offers views that almost justify the price of your gin and tonic. Almost.

The interior strikes that delicate balance between "authentic pub" and "Instagram backdrop" that so many venues attempt and spectacularly botch. The log burner (because of course there's a log burner) actually serves a purpose beyond aesthetic, transforming the space into a legitimately cozy retreat during London's endless winter months. The seating arrangements manage to accommodate both the after-work crowd and those settling in for a proper meal without making either group feel like they're in the wrong place.

Speaking of meals, I approached the menu with the sort of skepticism usually reserved for politicians' promises. The kitchen has the audacity to serve both traditional pies and modern burger creations, a combination that typically screams "identity crisis." Yet somehow, they pull it off. The pies are proper pies, not those sad little dishes with a puff pastry lid masquerading as the real thing. The burgers, meanwhile, know exactly what they are - pub burgers that aren't trying to compete with London's dedicated burger joints, and they're better for it.

The drink selection deserves mention, if only because they've managed to stock a bar that satisfies both the real ale enthusiasts and the craft beer crowd without making either feel like they're slumming it. The wine list won't win awards, but it won't make you wince either - a feat rarer than you'd think in London pubs.

Service walks that fine line between efficient and casual that defines a good pub experience. They'll let you linger over your pint without making you feel like you're squatting, but appear mysteriously at your elbow the moment you're ready for another. It's the kind of practiced casualness that actually takes considerable skill to pull off.

The pricing sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite decide if it's reasonable or if you're being taken for a ride. Sure, you're paying more than you would at your local, but less than those trendy Shoreditch establishments where they serve chips in miniature shopping trolleys. And somehow, after a pint or two, watching the canal boats drift by, you find yourself thinking it's worth it.

What truly sets The Malt Shovel apart from London's endless parade of "authentic" pubs is that it actually delivers on its promises. The dog-friendly policy isn't just a sign on the door - there's usually at least one contented pooch sprawled by the fire. The parking situation (free, miracle of miracles) acknowledges that not everyone arrives by tube. And the atmosphere manages to welcome both locals and tourists without making either feel like they're in the wrong place.

Look, I didn't want to like The Malt Shovel. I wanted to dismiss it as another soulless attempt to capitalize on London's pub culture. But here I am, grudgingly admitting that it's worth your time. Whether you're after a quiet pint, a decent meal, or just a spot to watch the world float by on the canal, you'll find what you're looking for here. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.