The Jolly Gardeners

Just what London needs - another gastropub masquerading as your friendly neighborhood watering hole. The Jolly Gardeners in Putney had me rolling my eyes before I even crossed the threshold. These places are usually about as authentic as a three-pound note, with their carefully curated "casual" atmosphere and suspiciously clean beer gardens.

But damn it all if this place hasn't wormed its way into my cynical heart like an uninvited but surprisingly charming houseguest. The Jolly Gardeners sits there on its little side street, looking almost embarrassingly picturesque with its hanging baskets and those admittedly clever outdoor heated huts (which, yes, I grudgingly appreciate during London's nine months of winter).

Inside, it's the usual suspects - exposed brick, vintage light fixtures, mismatched furniture that somehow costs more than my monthly rent. But here's where they got me: instead of the typical manufactured quirkiness, there's an actual personality lurking beneath the gastropub veneer. The bar staff, particularly a chap named Hayden, demonstrate that increasingly rare quality of genuine hospitality rather than the rehearsed friendliness I've come to expect from these establishments.

Let's talk about the drinks because that's what you're really here for. The beer selection is thoughtful without being pretentious - you won't have to pretend to understand what "notes of Madagascar vanilla and Estonian pine needles" means just to order a pint. The wine list is surprisingly decent, and the cocktails are mixed with precision rather than flashy theatrics. Though I must say, watching the bartenders actually measure their pours instead of free-pouring with abandon is both reassuring and slightly disappointing to my inner chaos demon.

The food menu initially had me preparing my most scathing adjectives. However, the kitchen seems to understand its lane and stays in it admirably. Yes, there are the obligatory "triple-cooked chips" (because apparently cooking them twice wasn't enough), but they're actually properly crispy. The fish dishes can be hit or miss - sometimes the skin isn't quite as crispy as promised, but when they get it right, they get it very right. The vegetarian options aren't just sad afterthoughts, which is refreshing in a pub setting.

Now, about those heated outdoor huts - they're basically London's answer to private igloos, minus the cultural appropriation. They're surprisingly comfortable and make al fresco drinking possible even when the weather is doing its best to remind us why our ancestors invented roofs. The main garden area is pleasant too, though it can get packed faster than a Tube station during rush hour.

What really sets The Jolly Gardeners apart from London's sea of similar establishments is its ability to function as both a proper pub and a decent dining venue without suffering from an identity crisis. The sports-watching crowd coexists peacefully with the date-night couples, which is about as rare as a reasonable rental price in Zone 2.

The pricing is what you'd expect for a moderately upscale pub in London - which is to say, it'll make visitors from up north choke on their Yorkshire pudding. But for Putney, it's fairly standard, and at least you're getting something worthwhile for your money. The Sunday roasts, when they're on point, are actually worth the price tag, though I'm contractually obligated as a food critic to mention they're not as good as your mum's.

Dog-friendly, group-friendly, and surprisingly accepting of my cutting remarks when I first visited, The Jolly Gardeners has proven itself more than just another cookie-cutter London pub. It's managed to maintain that delicate balance between being nice enough to impress a first date but casual enough for a quick pint after work.

Look, I didn't want to like The Jolly Gardeners. I really didn't. But much like that friend who keeps suggesting karaoke nights that somehow turn out to be fun, it's worn down my defenses. If you're in Putney and in need of a proper pub experience that doesn't sacrifice quality for authenticity (or vice versa), you might as well give it a shot. Just don't blame me if you end up becoming a regular - I tried to stay cynical, but some places make it impossibly difficult.