The Hound

Just what Chiswick needed - another gastropub masquerading as London's next culinary revelation. The Hound, perched smugly on the High Street, initially struck me as yet another pretender to the throne of West London's dining scene. Let's be honest, we've all been burned before by places promising "elevated pub fare" that turns out to be nothing more than frozen chips with a sprig of sad rosemary.

But damn it all if The Hound hasn't managed to get under my skin. Perhaps it was the moment I stepped into their internal courtyard, an unexpected oasis that makes you temporarily forget you're in London altogether. Or maybe it was watching their surprisingly competent bartender craft a cocktail that didn't make me want to flee back to Soho in horror.

The problem with The Hound - and I say this with increasing reluctance - is that they're actually trying. Take their ham hock croquettes, for instance. I was fully prepared to dismiss them as yet another pub menu cliché, but they arrived perfectly crisp, generously filled, and without a hint of the greasy aftermath that usually accompanies such endeavors. It's frankly annoying when you can't find legitimate fault with something.

Their Sunday roast deserves particular mention, though I'm loathe to add to the already considerable queue of weekend warriors vying for a table. The sharing board - a concept I typically mock with unbridled disdain - is a theatrical presentation that somehow manages to justify its existence. The cauliflower cheese (and I can't believe I'm writing this) is worth the visit alone. They've somehow managed to elevate this humble side dish to something approaching transcendence, which is both impressive and deeply irritating.

The courtyard seating has become something of a local legend, and yes, you'll need to book well in advance if you want any hope of securing a spot during summer months. The indoor space maintains an atmosphere that walks the line between casual and refined without stumbling into pretentiousness - no small feat in this postcode.

What's particularly vexing is their attention to detail in areas where most venues simply couldn't be bothered. The peppercorn sauce (which accompanies several dishes) isn't the usual bland, cream-heavy affair but rather a properly prepared reduction that shows someone in the kitchen actually gives a damn. The wine list, while not encyclopedic, is thoughtfully curated and reasonably marked up - a rare combination in London these days.

Dog owners, you'll be pleased (and I'll be mildly annoyed) to know that your four-legged friends are welcome. The staff even seems genuinely happy to see them, rather than merely tolerating their presence with gritted teeth. Speaking of staff, they've managed to assemble a team that strikes that elusive balance between attentiveness and hovering - though I'm sure they'll mess that up eventually. (They haven't yet, but I live in hope.)

For those concerned about practical matters, there's paid street parking nearby, though good luck finding a spot during peak hours. They accept all major payment methods, and yes, you can tap your phone like the modern urbanite you pretend to be. Reservations are not just recommended but practically mandatory, especially for weekend service.

The Hound has carved out its own identity in a borough already bursting with dining options. While the prices might raise an eyebrow - this isn't your grandfather's local pub tab - the quality generally justifies the cost. The kitchen demonstrates consistent excellence, the atmosphere hits the right notes, and the service remains remarkably unflustered even during the Sunday rush.

Look, I don't enjoy admitting when a place exceeds my carefully cultivated cynicism, but The Hound has managed exactly that. Whether you're seeking a memorable Sunday roast, a sophisticated evening meal, or simply a well-crafted cocktail in surprisingly pleasant surroundings, you'll find it here. Book ahead, bring your expectations, and prepare to have them met - possibly even exceeded. Just don't tell them I sent you. I have a reputation to maintain.