The Fox Pub & Dining Keston

Just what London needs - another gastropub masquerading as the second coming of culinary excellence. When I heard The Fox Pub & Dining Keston had reopened under new management, I rolled my eyes so hard I nearly sprained something. Another "transformed" pub promising to revolutionize the tired old formula of decent food and decent drinks in a decent setting. How groundbreaking.

But damn them, they're actually doing something right here.

Perhaps it's the way they've split the space - half traditional pub for the regulars who'd riot if they couldn't get their pint in peace, half brasserie for those of us who've evolved beyond scotch eggs and... wait, I take that back. Their scotch egg is embarrassingly good. The kind of good that makes you question everything you thought you knew about pub food. It's like they took the humble bar snack and sent it to finishing school.

The dining room strikes that infuriatingly perfect balance between cozy and sophisticated. Those orange easy chairs they've installed are basically furniture sirens, luring you into a comfort coma before you've even ordered. The new owners clearly spent some time (and money) on the renovation, though they've managed to avoid the sterile "Instagram-ready" aesthetic that plagues half of London's dining scene.

Let's talk about the food because, frankly, it's better than it has any right to be at these prices. The menu walks a clever line between pub classics and more ambitious fare, like watching a Shakespeare play performed in jeans - it shouldn't work, but somehow it does. Their Sunday roast (and I don't say this lightly) is the kind of meal that makes you want to start a religion. The Yorkshire puddings achieve that mythical balance between crispy and cloud-like that most pubs only dream about.

The service, while occasionally operating on what I'll charitably call "village time," has a genuine warmth that's becoming endangered in London's dining scene. Yes, you might wait a few extra minutes for your drink, but your server will actually remember your name and preferences, like some sort of hospitality unicorn.

They've made the wise decision to keep the bar well-stocked with local ales alongside the requisite craft offerings. The wine list is surprisingly decent for a pub, with bottles that won't require a second mortgage. Their cocktails show ambition without veering into the territory of molecular gastronomy gone wrong - no one's trying to serve you a martini in a smoke-filled balloon here, thank heavens.

The dog-friendly policy means you might have to share space with the occasional four-legged patron, but they've managed this better than most. The dining area remains civilized enough for a date night, while the pub section happily accommodates both locals and their well-behaved hounds.

Parking is mercifully straightforward - a free lot that doesn't require advanced geometry to navigate. They take all major forms of payment (how generous of them to accept our money), and the prices, while not bargain-basement, won't leave you checking your account balance in panic. Most main courses hover in that sweet spot where you can justify it as "treating yourself" without having to skip breakfast for a week.

The vegetarian options aren't just sad afterthoughts, which is refreshing. They've actually put thought into dishes that would satisfy even the most committed carnivore. The children's menu also shows similar consideration, offering more than the usual chicken nugget purgatory.

Look, I wanted to be cynical about The Fox Pub & Dining Keston. I really did. But they've managed to create something that London's dining scene actually needed - a proper pub that takes its food seriously without disappearing up its own pretensions. It's the kind of place where you could take your fussy foodie friend or your traditional gran, and they'd both leave happy.

If you find yourself in this corner of London, do yourself a favor and book a table. Yes, I said book - this place gets busy, particularly for Sunday lunch. And as much as it pains me to admit it, there's a good reason for that. Just don't tell them I sent you. I have a reputation to maintain.