The Elephant Inn, Finchley

Just what North London needs - another pub-slash-Thai restaurant hybrid. The Elephant Inn in Finchley had me rolling my eyes before I even crossed the threshold. I mean, really, how many curry-and-pint combinations can one city sustain? But like that friend who keeps dating someone you initially couldn't stand, I've found myself becoming increasingly, irritatingly fond of the place.

Let's address the elephant in the room (sorry, not sorry): this Finchley establishment is doing that tired old British pub-meets-Asian cuisine thing. You know the drill - dark wood downstairs, bright lights and waving lucky cats upstairs. Except... blast it... they're actually doing it rather well. The ground floor maintains its proper boozer credentials with an impressive array of screens for sports viewing and enough real ale options to satisfy your most pedantic CAMRA-card-carrying mate.

The real surprise - and I'm genuinely annoyed about having to admit this - happens when you venture upstairs. The Thai restaurant portion of The Elephant Inn manages to avoid the usual pitfalls of pub-housed Asian eateries. There's no awkward fusion attempts, no dumbed-down spicing for timid palates, just straight-up, properly executed Thai classics. The pad thai doesn't taste like it came from a packet sometime during the Blair administration, and the green curry actually has some fire to it.

What's particularly vexing is how they've managed to nail the atmosphere in both spaces. Downstairs remains decidedly pub-like, complete with quiz nights and live music that doesn't make you want to flee to the nearest soundproof bunker. The upstairs dining room somehow feels separate enough that you're not just eating in a pub's spare room, yet the whole operation maintains a casual, unpretentious vibe that makes both spaces work together.

The staff, curse them, are actually competent and friendly without being cloying. They remember regulars' names and preferences, which in London feels about as rare as a reasonable rent price. Even more annoying is how they handle the inevitable busy periods - you know, when most pub-restaurants transform into chaotic disaster zones? They actually maintain their composure and service standards.

Price-wise, it sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite complain but also can't quite brag about finding a bargain. The pub grub downstairs won't require a remortgage, and the Thai menu upstairs charges what you'd expect for proper Thai food in London - which is to say, more than Thailand but less than daylight robbery.

The drinks selection deserves a begrudging nod of approval. Beyond the requisite lagers and ales, they've got a decent wine list that wasn't apparently curated by someone whose only qualification is having once watched "Sideways." The cocktails are surprisingly well-crafted, though I'm slightly resentful about how good their Thai-inspired concoctions are - it feels like showing off at this point.

They've even managed to get the little details right, which is frankly just showing off. The outdoor seating area isn't just a sad collection of wobbly tables next to the bins. The quiz nights actually draw a crowd that's there for more than just the cheap drinks. And yes, fine, the karaoke nights are genuinely entertaining, though I'll deny saying that if quoted.

For families (ugh, yes, it's family-friendly), groups, or anyone looking for a spot that somehow manages to be all things to all people without completely mucking it up, The Elephant Inn in Finchley has annoyingly positioned itself as a solid choice. The fact that they welcome dogs just feels like they're deliberately trying to win over every possible demographic.

Look, I didn't want to like The Elephant Inn. I wanted to write a scathing review about another mediocre London pub trying to be too many things at once. Instead, I'm sitting here, reluctantly planning my next visit, because sometimes you have to admit when you're wrong. If you're in Finchley and looking for either a proper pub experience or legitimate Thai food - or heaven help us, both - you might as well join me in my defeat and give it a go. Just don't tell them I sent you. I have a reputation to maintain.