The Earl Inn

Just what Loughrea needed - another pub claiming to be more than a watering hole. The Earl Inn sits there on the main drag, all done up like it's trying to convince us it's somehow different from the countless other establishments dotting this Irish town. I'll admit, I approached with the sort of weary skepticism that comes from years of encountering places that promise the moon and deliver processed cheese.

But damn it all if The Earl Inn hasn't managed to do something rather unexpected - it's actually good. Not just "good for Loughrea" good, but legitimately, irritatingly good. The kind of good that forces a cynical food writer to reluctantly delete the witty barbs they'd pre-written in anticipation of another mediocre meal.

The first crack in my armor came with the surprisingly competent cocktail service. In a town where "mixology" usually means deciding whether to add Coke or 7-Up to your whiskey, The Earl Inn's bartenders display an almost shocking level of expertise. Their Old Fashioned doesn't make me want to cry into my sleeve, which in rural Ireland is practically a miracle.

The dining room strikes that elusive balance between cozy pub atmosphere and actual restaurant, managing to avoid both the sticky-floor syndrome of traditional boozers and the sterile pretension of wannabe fine dining establishments. The renovation work they've done shows genuine thought rather than just throwing some generic "vintage" signs on the walls and calling it authentic.

Let's talk about the food because that's where my carefully cultivated cynicism really started to crumble. The menu reads like standard pub fare, but the execution tells a different story. Their chicken stir-fry - usually the lazy option on any Irish pub menu - emerges from the kitchen with vegetables that haven't been cooked into submission and actually maintains some semblance of spice. The burgers (both beef and chicken) display evidence that someone in the kitchen genuinely cares about what they're serving, which is frankly unsettling in its rarity.

The spicy wings deserve special mention, if only because they've committed the revolutionary act of actually being spicy. Not "Irish spicy" (which typically means they once showed the chicken a picture of a chili pepper), but legitimately, properly hot. It's almost worth ordering just to watch unsuspecting customers discover that the warning on the menu isn't just for show.

What's particularly irksome is the price point. Everything costs about what you'd expect to pay at any decent pub, which makes it considerably harder to maintain my professional disapproval. They're not even giving me the satisfaction of being able to complain about the bill. The nerve.

The service, while occasionally showing signs of that charming Irish disorder where multiple staff members attend to the same table (sometimes with hilariously contradictory information), maintains a level of genuine warmth that's hard to fake. They've managed to hire people who actually seem to enjoy their jobs, which I suspect might be against some sort of local ordinance.

For those planning events (heaven help you), The Earl Inn has apparently decided to be annoyingly competent at that too. The space adapts well for everything from intimate dinners to larger gatherings, with various areas that can be configured for different types of functions. They've even got live music that doesn't make you want to stick forks in your ears.

The parking situation is mercifully straightforward, with both on-street and lot options that won't require you to remortgage your house. They take cards (welcome to the 21st century), offer takeaway for those days when human interaction seems too daunting, and even do delivery for the thoroughly antisocial.

Look, I didn't want to like The Earl Inn. I came armed with a notebook full of clever criticisms and left with the frustrating realization that Loughrea has actually managed to produce something genuinely worth visiting. Whether you're after a proper pint, a surprisingly decent meal, or just a spot to gather with friends without having to shout over terrible music, this place has annoyingly managed to tick all the boxes.

Go ahead, book a table. Join the distressingly happy customers who've already discovered what I'm reluctantly admitting: The Earl Inn is good. Really good. And I hate that I have to tell you that.