The Duke

Just what London needs - another pub claiming to be the thinking person's local. The Duke sits there, all smug and self-assured, probably expecting me to fawn over its exposed brick walls and craft beer selection like every other critic who stumbles through its doors after a long day of disappointing venues. Well, I wasn't born yesterday, and I've seen enough "authentic British pubs" to last several lifetimes.

But damn it all if The Duke didn't manage to worm its way into my cynical heart. Maybe it was the way the afternoon light filtered through those Victorian windows, creating the kind of ambiance Instagram filters desperately try to replicate. Or perhaps it was the surprisingly competent bar staff who didn't feel the need to lecture me about hop profiles or bore me with their mixology credentials.

The place strikes an impossible balance between neighborhood watering hole and destination venue - a feat that frankly shouldn't work in London's oversaturated pub scene. Two pool tables occupy prime real estate without making the place feel like a sports bar, and the live music setup suggests someone actually thought about acoustics instead of just cramming a PA system into the corner as an afterthought.

Let's talk about that dual personality, shall we? By day, The Duke plays the role of proper pub with all the requisite trimmings - decent food that won't win Michelin stars but will satisfy your Sunday roast cravings, comfortable seating that doesn't try too hard to be vintage, and a drinks selection that covers all bases without attempting to stock every craft brewery in the Northern Hemisphere. The prices won't make you wince quite as much as most London establishments, though don't expect bargain basement deals either.

As night falls, something rather interesting happens. Instead of becoming another soulless drinking factory, The Duke transforms into what can only be described as a grown-up's playground. The DJ sets are surprisingly good - and I don't say that lightly, having suffered through enough pub "entertainment" to last several lifetimes. The crowd somehow manages to avoid both the try-hard hipster scene and the rowdy sports pub atmosphere, landing in a sweet spot that makes you forget you're getting too old for this sort of thing.

The outdoor seating area deserves special mention, if only because it doesn't feel like an afterthought constructed during lockdown. They've managed to create a space that's actually pleasant to sit in, rather than making you feel like you're drinking in a hastily converted parking space. Dog owners, rejoice - your four-legged friends are welcome, and the staff actually seems to enjoy their presence rather than merely tolerating it.

For those planning events (god help you), The Duke has proven surprisingly capable at hosting everything from wedding receptions to birthday gatherings. The space is versatile enough to accommodate large groups without making regular punters feel like they've wandered into someone else's party by mistake. And yes, they take reservations - a concept seemingly foreign to many London pubs.

Payment is mercifully modern - contactless, cards, and all the usual suspects are accepted. No need to make that awkward ATM run when you realize you're in a cash-only establishment. The security presence is noticeable without being intrusive, striking that delicate balance between maintaining order and not making you feel like you're entering a high-security facility.

Look, I didn't want to like The Duke. London has enough decent pubs, and my cynicism quota needs maintaining. But for every minor gripe (yes, the graffiti in the bathrooms could use addressing, and sometimes the food service timing needs work), there are three things done right. It's not perfect - thank god, because perfect pubs are usually awful - but it's genuine in a way that's becoming increasingly rare in London's homogenized pub scene.

Fine, you win, The Duke. You've earned your place in London's pub landscape. Go ahead and book a table, especially if you're planning to visit during peak hours or want to catch one of their surprisingly decent music nights. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.