The Duchess W6

Just what West London needed - another gastropub masquerading as a proper boozer. When I first heard about The Duchess W6 in London's Hammersmith, I rolled my eyes so hard I nearly sprained something. Another Victorian-era pub given a millennial makeover, complete with the requisite craft beer selection and "elevated" pub grub. How groundbreaking.

And yet, damn it all, I find myself becoming one of those insufferable regulars who actually likes the place. It's not that I wanted to - believe me, I had my cynical critic's pen ready to eviscerate it. But The Duchess W6 has this annoying habit of doing things right when you least expect it.

Take the space itself. The 1928 building could have easily fallen victim to the sterile, Instagram-friendly renovation plague that's infected half of London's pubs. Instead, they had the good sense to preserve that gorgeous ornate ceiling and let the green walls and wood floors maintain their proper pub dignity. The two-room layout actually works - one for proper drinking (as God intended), one for those who insist on making a meal of it.

The beer garden deserves special mention, if only because it manages to avoid the depressing concrete jungle aesthetic of most London outdoor spaces. They've gone and made it actually pleasant, with decent coverage for our perpetually drizzly climate and enough greenery to make you forget you're in W6 for a moment. The front seating area is prime people-watching territory, perfect for judging the passing Hammersmith crowds with your drinking companions.

Speaking of drinks - yes, they have your craft beers and yes, they're charging London prices that would make your gran faint. But the selection is actually thoughtful rather than trendy-for-trendy's-sake, and they maintain proper cask ales for those of us who still respect tradition. The staff, miraculously, know their products and don't give you that blank stare when you ask about hop profiles.

The food menu is where I really wanted to sharpen my critical knives. £18 for fish and chips? In Hammersmith? But then they go and serve it perfectly crisp, with chips that actually taste of potato rather than frying oil, and house-made tartar sauce that puts most proper restaurants to shame. The Sunday roast (£20 for the beef) is genuinely worth dragging yourself out of bed for, even with a hangover. Though I'll never admit this in person, it's better than my mum's - and she'd disown me for saying so.

What's particularly vexing is how they've managed to nail the pub atmosphere despite being clearly well-maintained. There's a dart board that gets actual use, live music that doesn't make you want to flee, and a pub quiz that attracts a proper mix of locals rather than just the usual teams of smug young professionals.

The service manages to pull off that rare balance between professional and personable - they'll chat if you want to chat, leave you alone if you don't, and somehow remember your usual order without making a fuss about it. It's the kind of authentic touch that can't be trained into staff, no matter how many corporate workshops you inflict on them.

Let's talk location - perched on the western edges of Hammersmith, it's just far enough from the Broadway chaos to feel like a neighborhood pub while still being stumbling distance from Stamford Brook tube. The building's got history too - originally the Queen of England in 1870, though they've mercifully avoided turning that heritage into a tacky marketing gimmick.

Look, I didn't want to like The Duchess W6. I really didn't. But if you're going to insist on visiting a pub in this part of London, you might as well make it this one. Book ahead for Sunday roast, bring your dog if you've got one (they're welcome), and for heaven's sake, try the fish and chips. Just don't tell them I sent you - I've got a reputation to maintain.