The Curragower Bar and Kitchen

Just what Limerick needed - another riverside pub with notions. The Curragower Bar and Kitchen sits there smugly along the Shannon, flaunting its castle views like it's somehow responsible for eight centuries of Irish history. I'll admit, I approached with the sort of weary skepticism that comes from reviewing one too many establishments claiming to be "more than just a pub."

Let's address the elephant in the room - yes, it's perfectly positioned across from King John's Castle. The views are admittedly spectacular, especially from their glass-enclosed terrace that somehow manages to make even Limerick's notorious rain look romantic. But pretty views don't make a meal, and I've been burned before by places coasting on location alone.

I arrived determined to find fault, armed with a notebook and a healthy dose of cynicism. The first crack in my armor came with their seafood chowder, a dish that practically every pub in Ireland claims to have mastered. Here's the irritating part - theirs is actually exceptional. Loaded with various fish and served with proper brown bread, it's the kind of starter that makes you momentarily forget your professional obligation to be critical.

The menu strikes an annoyingly successful balance between pub classics and more ambitious fare. Their chicken wings (which locals won't shut up about) are frustratingly good, with a sauce that somehow manages to be both traditional and innovative. The seafood pie arrived topped with mashed potatoes that achieved that elusive perfect consistency - something between clouds and butter, if you can forgive the poetic indulgence.

Even more vexing is their handling of vegetarian options. The Eden Burger isn't the sad afterthought many Irish pubs serve to their non-meat-eating patrons. It's actually thoughtfully constructed, which is particularly irksome for someone who came prepared to mock token vegetarian offerings.

The service maintains that particularly Irish quality of being both professional and casual, like they're letting you in on a joke while efficiently managing your dining experience. It's the kind of place where your water glass never empties, yet somehow you never catch them filling it - a neat trick that's harder to pull off than it looks.

Let's talk about the bar because, despite its culinary aspirations, this is still technically a pub. The selection of craft beers is extensive without being pretentious, and they pour a proper pint - something that shouldn't be noteworthy but sadly is. Their cocktail game is stronger than it needs to be, suggesting someone behind the bar actually cares about these things.

The pricing sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite complain but still feel compelled to raise an eyebrow. You're paying a bit more than your average pub grub, but less than what the quality would command in Dublin. It's annoyingly reasonable, really.

The space itself deserves mention - they've managed to preserve the traditional pub atmosphere while sneaking in modern comforts. The covered terrace is particularly well-executed, offering river views without forcing you to endure the full brunt of Atlantic weather patterns. During busy times, the main dining room can get warm enough to make you consider using your menu as a fan, but they're usually quick to adjust when asked.

Parking can be a pain, as with most city centre locations, though there are usually spots available if you're willing to circle the block once or twice. They take reservations - use this information wisely, especially for weekend dinner service or if you're hoping to snag a terrace table.

Here's the truly infuriating part about The Curragower Bar and Kitchen in Limerick - it's actually worth visiting. Despite my best efforts to maintain professional detachment, I've found myself recommending it to friends and returning on my own dime. It's the kind of place that makes you question your commitment to being hard to please. Do yourself a favor and book a table. Just try not to look too impressed when you get there - we critics have a reputation to maintain.