The Bloody Stream

Just what Dublin needs - another pub with "bloody" in the name. The Bloody Stream in Dublin's seaside suburb of Howth initially struck me as yet another tourist trap trading on Irish drinking stereotypes. Situated beneath the DART station like some troll under a bridge, it had all the markings of a place I'd love to hate. And yet...

Here's the infuriating thing about The Bloody Stream - it's actually good. Really good. The kind of place that makes a cynical food writer question their life choices after realizing they've spent three hours there without checking their phone once. The cozy fireplace, which should feel contrived, somehow manages to be genuinely inviting. It's like walking into your imaginary Irish grandfather's pub, if your grandfather had surprisingly good taste in wine and knew his way around a seafood kitchen.

Speaking of seafood - and I can't believe I'm saying this - but their oysters are worth writing home about. Fresh from the boats that bob in Howth's harbor, they're served with minimal fuss and maximum flavor. The seafood chowder, which in lesser establishments often resembles dishwater with ambitious floating bits, here achieves that perfect balance between creamy richness and briny depth. It's the kind of soup that makes you forget you're in a pub, until you wash it down with a perfectly poured pint of Guinness.

The menu stretches beyond the expected pub fare, though they nail those classics too. Their fish and chips could make a London chippy weep with envy. The batter achieves that mythical level of crispness that somehow stays crunchy even as you're finishing your last bite, while the fish inside remains moist enough to make you suspicious of witchcraft.

Table service is refreshingly unpretentious. The staff possess that rare combination of efficiency and charm that makes you feel like a regular even on your first visit. They're knowledgeable without being pompous, attentive without hovering, and - most importantly - they know exactly when you need another round without having to be asked.

The space itself deserves mention, though I'm loath to admit it. The stone walls and wooden beams could have been tacky pub-theme-park territory, but they're actually original features that give the place legitimate character. The outdoor seating area, when Dublin's mercurial weather permits its use, offers a prime spot for people-watching as tourists and locals alike stream to and from the DART station above.

Live music features regularly, and unlike many venues where it feels like punishment, here it actually enhances the atmosphere. They've somehow mastered the volume level where you can still hear your companion's gossip while enjoying the background entertainment - a feat so rare it deserves its own Michelin star.

The pricing sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite complain but still feel compelled to check your bank balance the next morning. It's not cheap, but considering the quality of both food and atmosphere, it's fair enough to silence all but the most determined grumblers (like myself, usually).

They welcome families earlier in the day, transforming seamlessly into a more adult-oriented venue as evening approaches. The children's menu isn't the usual frozen nugget festival - they actually serve proper food scaled down to smaller portions. It's almost like they respect their younger diners' palates, the absolute madness of it.

For visitors to Dublin looking to escape the city center's tourist circus, The Bloody Stream offers the perfect excuse to hop on the DART to Howth. For locals, it's the kind of place you'll find yourself suggesting when you want to impress out-of-towners while actually enjoying yourself in the process. Good for groups, couples, families, or solo diners seeking quality food with their pint, it's irritatingly versatile.

I hate to admit it, but The Bloody Stream has earned its reputation as one of Dublin's better pub-restaurants. Whether you're after fresh seafood, a proper pint, or just a cozy corner to hide from Ireland's legendary rain, you'll find yourself reluctantly adding it to your list of regular haunts. Book ahead for dinner - the secret's unfortunately out on this one.