Temperance

Just what London needs - another pub masquerading as a sports bar, or is it a sports bar pretending to be a pub? The Temperance in Fulham presents itself with all the subtlety of a penalty kick to the face, occupying a corner spot that practically screams "I used to be something more dignified!" And yet, against my better judgment, I find myself returning with increasing frequency.

The irony of naming a pub "Temperance" isn't lost on anyone with a passing knowledge of Victorian social history. Housed in what was originally a 1910 billiards hall - part of a temperance movement initiative to lure men away from alcohol - it now serves as a temple to the very vice it was meant to combat. There's something deliciously British about that particular twist of fate.

Let's address the elephant in the room: yes, The Temperance is essentially a sports bar. But before you roll your eyes (as I initially did), it's managed to strike that elusive balance between showing every conceivable sporting event and maintaining enough dignity to avoid feeling like a freshman frat party. The Grade II listed building's art nouveau details serve as a constant reminder that you're drinking in a slice of London history, even if you're watching Arsenal disappoint their fans on one of the numerous screens.

The space itself is surprisingly vast, spread across two levels with a mezzanine that offers both additional seating and a slight escape from the occasional sports-induced chaos below. The central island bar, while not winning any beauty contests, serves its purpose efficiently. The mixture of seating options - from intimate booths to high tables - means you can choose your own adventure, whether that's a casual date or a group gathering to watch the match.

Now, about those prices. They're firmly in the "welcome to London" territory, with pints hovering around the £7-8 mark. Is it painful? Yes. Will you pay it anyway? Also yes, because the selection actually manages to be interesting enough to justify the cost (though I'll deny saying this if quoted). They've gone beyond the usual suspects to include a rotating selection of craft beers that occasionally make you forget you're paying Zone 2 prices.

The food menu reads like a greatest hits compilation of pub grub, with enough modern touches to keep it from feeling completely stuck in 1995. The fish and chips, priced at £16.50, is actually decent - the fish fresh, the batter crispy, and the portions generous enough to soak up several of those overpriced pints. They're not reinventing the wheel here, but they're at least making sure it's well-oiled.

What truly sets The Temperance apart from its peers in London's crowded pub scene is its ability to serve multiple masters without completely disappointing any of them. Sports fans get their screens and atmosphere, groups get their space and various entertainment options (including pool tables that don't require a degree in geometry to navigate around), and casual drinkers get a perfectly serviceable pub with enough character to merit a visit even when there's no match on.

The service, remarkably, manages to be both efficient and genuinely friendly - a combination as rare in London as an affordable housing development. The staff seem to actually enjoy their jobs, or at least they're talented enough actors to convince me they do, which is all that really matters when you're three pints in and need another round.

Located a stone's throw from Putney Bridge station, The Temperance has become something of a local institution, though it pains me slightly to admit it. It's the kind of place that makes you question your own snobbery - yes, it's a sports bar, yes, it's probably too expensive, and yes, it can get rowdy during big matches. But damn it if it hasn't carved out its own unique space in Fulham's drinking landscape.

For those in search of a proper London pub experience, The Temperance might not be your first choice. But if you're looking for a place that successfully bridges the gap between traditional pub charm and modern sports bar functionality, you could do far worse. Book a booth if you're planning to watch a match, bring enough cash to not wince at the prices (too much), and prepare to reluctantly admit that sometimes the obvious choice is the right one. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.