Pub Grub & Co Dún Laoghaire

Just what Dublin needs - another pub with pretensions of gastronomy. When I first heard about Pub Grub & Co in Dún Laoghaire, I rolled my eyes so hard I nearly sprained an optic nerve. Another establishment jumping on the "elevated pub fare" bandwagon, I thought. How utterly original.

But damn them for actually getting it right.

Look, I've suffered through enough mediocre gastropub experiences to fill a memoir titled "Why I Drink: A Food Critic's Lament." So when I grudgingly pushed open the door of Pub Grub & Co Dún Laoghaire, my expectations were lower than a limbo champion at happy hour. The first thing that hit me was the atmosphere - not the usual try-hard fusion of industrial-chic meets Irish kitsch that plagues so many Dublin venues. Instead, they've managed to maintain that authentic pub soul while subtly suggesting they might actually know their way around a kitchen.

The bar staff deserves special mention, if only because they've mastered the increasingly rare art of pulling a proper pint of Guinness without making it feel like a theatrical performance worthy of the Abbey Theatre. There's something refreshingly honest about their approach - they're knowledgeable without being pretentious, attentive without hovering like anxious helicopter parents.

Now, about the food. I wanted to hate it, I really did. It would have made for a much more entertaining review if I could have eviscerated their menu with my usual sardonic flair. But no, they had to go and be actually good at what they do. Their pub classics are executed with the kind of precision that makes you wonder if they've got a culinary perfectionist chained up in the kitchen. The food manages to be both familiar and slightly elevated, like your favorite comfort dish got a master's degree but didn't become insufferable about it.

The dining room, with its mix of traditional pub coziness and contemporary touches, strikes a balance that shouldn't work but somehow does - like a Shakespeare play performed in modern dress by actors who actually understand the material. The outdoor seating area provides a pleasant escape when Dublin's weather decides to be uncharacteristically cooperative, which happens about as often as a politician keeping their campaign promises.

They've done something rather clever with their lunch service, offering dishes that won't put you into a food coma for your afternoon meetings. The dinner menu shows more ambition, though thankfully stopping short of the dreaded "deconstructed fish and chips" territory that plagues so many venues trying too hard to be innovative.

What's particularly infuriating is how they've managed to maintain the casual, drop-in-for-a-pint accessibility of a traditional pub while delivering food that would make many restaurants in Dublin's city center nervous. The wine list, while not encyclopedic, shows more thought than the usual "red or white" offering you'd expect, and pairs surprisingly well with their menu. Yes, I'm as shocked as you are to be discussing wine pairings in a pub review.

Groups are well-catered for, though I'd suggest booking ahead unless you enjoy the special kind of anxiety that comes from trying to find space for six people during peak hours. The payment system has been dragged into the 21st century, accepting everything from cash to contactless, which is more than I can say for some supposedly higher-end establishments in Dublin proper.

For those venturing to Dún Laoghaire from central Dublin, Pub Grub & Co offers something increasingly rare: a destination venue that's actually worth the DART ride. It's situated perfectly for an after-walk pit stop following a stroll along the pier, assuming you can resist the siren call of Teddy's ice cream (though why choose when you can have both?).

I find myself, much to my professional chagrin, recommending Pub Grub & Co Dún Laoghaire to friends and colleagues. It's the kind of place that reminds you why pubs became the cornerstone of Irish social life in the first place - good food, well-poured drinks, and service that makes you feel like a regular even on your first visit. Book a table, order a pint, and prepare to join me in reluctant admiration. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.