Park Tavern

Just what London needed - another pub masquerading as a gastropub. The Park Tavern in London's Merton Road area initially struck me as yet another victim of the capital's relentless gentrification epidemic. You know the type: historic boozer given a Pinterest-worthy makeover, complete with carefully curated "vintage" furnishings and a menu that can't decide if it's serving pub grub or fine dining.

But damn it all to hell, they've actually done something right here.

Maybe it was the moment I sank into one of their suspiciously comfortable armchairs near that "brilliant fireplace" (as the locals keep annoyingly insisting on calling it). Or perhaps it was when the bartender actually knew the difference between an XB and an IPA without having to check their phone. The Park Tavern has somehow managed to thread the needle between preserving its proper pub soul and offering the kind of experience that satisfies both the old guard and the Instagram crowd.

The food menu had me rolling my eyes at first - another London pub promising "elevated classics." But their Sunday roast (when they actually manage to get the timing right) is genuinely worth writing home about. The chicken comes out properly succulent, not the dry disappointment I've come to expect from most London pubs trying to prove they're "gastro." And they don't skimp on the portions either, which is refreshing in an era where some places seem to think smaller plates justify bigger prices.

Their drinks selection strikes a pleasant balance between traditional and trendy. Yes, you can get your craft beer fix, but they haven't forgotten they're a proper pub first. The wine list won't win awards, but it's perfectly serviceable for a venue of this caliber. And unlike some places that seem to have a pathological fear of proper pint glasses, the Park Tavern serves drinks in vessels that actually make sense.

The space works for both intimate gatherings and larger groups, though you might want to book ahead if you're bringing the whole office - they've developed quite a following among the local crowd. The outdoor seating area is actually pleasant when London's weather decides to cooperate (approximately three days per year), and they're dog-friendly, which means you'll occasionally have to share space with four-legged patrons who are invariably better behaved than some of the two-legged ones.

What's particularly irritating is how well they've managed the transition under new management. Usually, these takeovers end in disaster, with all the charm stripped away in favor of whatever drinking trend is currently flooding Instagram. But the Park Tavern has somehow maintained its character while actually improving the experience. The staff seems genuinely interested in making sure you're having a good time, which is frankly suspicious in London.

They've kept the prices reasonable too, which is practically revolutionary in this part of town. You won't need to remortgage your house for a round of drinks and dinner, though it's not exactly bargain basement either. The food pricing sits comfortably in the "fair enough" category - not cheap, but you won't feel like you're being taken for a ride.

The vegetarian options aren't just sad afterthoughts, which is more than I can say for most London pubs. They've actually put some thought into it, though I'm contractually obligated as a food critic to complain about something, so I'll mention that the menu could use a few more creative options in this department.

Let's talk logistics: they take reservations (thank god), accept all major forms of payment (including that contactless nonsense everyone seems to love now), and even offer takeout and delivery for those days when you can't be bothered to put on proper trousers. There's parking nearby, though good luck finding a spot during peak hours - this is still London, after all.

Look, I didn't want to like the Park Tavern. I really didn't. London has enough "good" pubs that turn out to be all style and no substance. But if you're in the area and looking for a proper pub that's managed to evolve without losing its soul, you could do far worse. Just don't all rush there at once - I still need somewhere to get a decent pint without fighting through crowds of converts. Though given how they've maintained their standards even with growing popularity, I suppose I can grudgingly share this one with the masses.