Old Bull & Bush Hampstead

Just what London needs - another historic pub in Hampstead claiming to be something special. The Old Bull & Bush has been perched on North End Way since forever, watching trendy gastropubs come and go while supposedly maintaining its "authentic charm." I approached with my usual skepticism, fully prepared to pen another scathing review about mediocrity masquerading as tradition.

But damn it all if this place hasn't managed to do something rather impressive. The Old Bull & Bush Hampstead has somehow threaded the impossibly fine needle between preserving genuine pub atmosphere and serving food that makes you forget you're in a pub at all. The low-beamed ceilings and wooden fixtures could easily veer into tired cliché territory, but instead create an ambiance that feels both lived-in and intentional.

I hate to admit it, but they've nailed the layout. The bar area remains properly pubby for those seeking a pint and a grumble, while the restaurant section manages to feel distinct without becoming pretentious. It's the hospitality equivalent of successfully walking and chewing gum - a feat that countless London establishments spectacularly fail at attempting.

The food, which I fully expected to dismiss as overpriced pub grub, forced me to eat my words along with every last morsel on my plate. Their beef croquettes arrive with a dripping gravy that made me temporarily forget my professional cynicism. The pork belly (a dish I've had enough mediocre versions of to last several lifetimes) sports crackling so perfectly crisp it could probably be heard in Belsize Park.

Let's talk about the Sunday roast, since that's what everyone's really here for. The Yorkshire puddings rise like architectural masterpieces, the meat demonstrates proper respect for the animals it came from, and the portions are generous enough to satisfy even the most dedicated practitioner of Sunday afternoon napping. Yes, the roast potatoes could be crispier - but I'm starting to suspect they keep this single flaw intentionally, just to give complainers like me something to fixate on.

The drink selection deserves mention, if only because it manages to satisfy both the craft beer enthusiasts and the "I just want a proper pint" crowd. The wine list won't win awards, but it's thoughtfully curated and reasonably priced for what you're getting. Their cocktails display surprising competence for a pub, though if you're ordering a Negroni in a place that's been around since 1721, you might want to examine your life choices.

The garden area provides a rather lovely setting when London's weather decides to cooperate (approximately 3.5 days per year). They're dog-friendly too, which means you'll occasionally have to share space with some four-legged patron who's clearly living a better life than you are.

Service manages to strike that elusive balance between attentive and overbearing. The staff seem genuinely happy to be there, which is either excellent acting or good management - both equally impressive in today's hospitality landscape. Booking ahead is essential for the restaurant area, unless you enjoy the special torture of watching others eat while you wait at the bar (though the bar snacks menu makes this a less painful experience than it could be).

Price-wise, it sits in that sweet spot where you can't really complain but still feel compelled to mention it's not cheap. However, considering the quality of what's being served and the fact you're in Hampstead (where even the pigeons probably have trust funds), it's fair value for money.

Look, I didn't want to like the Old Bull & Bush Hampstead. I wanted to dismiss it as another overrated London pub trading on history and location. But it's annoyingly good at what it does. Whether you're seeking a proper pub experience, a surprisingly excellent meal, or just a place to show visiting relatives "traditional London," it delivers on all fronts. Book a table, order the roast, and prepare to join me in reluctant admiration. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.