Masterson Leisure Holdings (MLH) Ltd

Just what London needs - another pub company with a corporate-sounding name like Masterson Leisure Holdings (MLH) Ltd managing our beloved watering holes. When I first heard they'd taken over The Black Horse in Barnet, I rolled my eyes so hard I nearly sprained an optic nerve. Because nothing says "authentic British pub experience" quite like having "Holdings Ltd" in the name, right?

But here's the thing about prejudging - sometimes it makes you look like an absolute muppet. And I'll reluctantly admit that MLH has managed to do something rather impressive with The Black Horse, their flagship London pub. It's the kind of place that makes you question your carefully cultivated cynicism about corporate pub ownership.

The beer garden deserves special mention, if only because it's somehow avoided the usual fate of London pub outdoor spaces - you know, those depressing concrete squares with a few sad picnic tables and the lingering smell of yesterday's cigarettes. Instead, MLH has created what can only be described as an actual garden, complete with thoughtful landscaping and a separate function area that doesn't make you feel like you're celebrating your birthday in a prison yard.

I found myself becoming increasingly annoyed at how not-annoyed I was getting. The staff, rather than sporting the dead-eyed look of corporate hospitality drones, actually seem to enjoy their jobs. They know their beers, they remember faces, and they manage to make you feel like a regular even if you've only popped in for the first time. It's infuriatingly competent.

The beer selection is proper too - none of that "we've got six taps but five are different types of Stella" nonsense. They've maintained a solid rotation of both traditional ales and craft options, proving that someone in the MLH boardroom actually understands what pub-goers want. The wines aren't just the usual suspects either, though I'm still trying to figure out if that's by design or happy accident.

What's particularly irksome is how they've managed to strike that elusive balance between maintaining traditional pub charm and modern amenities. Yes, you can still pay by card without the bartender sighing dramatically and having to blow dust off the card machine. The bathrooms don't require a tetanus shot before entering. Yet somehow, miraculously, it still feels like a proper pub rather than a sanitized chain venue with Instagram-worthy lighting.

For those seeking function space in North London, the separate events area is surprisingly well-thought-out. It's large enough to accommodate proper gatherings but intimate enough that your nan's birthday party won't feel like it's being held in an aircraft hangar. The fact that they've managed to make it both practical and pleasant is, quite frankly, showing off.

The food... well, it's good. There, I said it. It's actually good pub food, not just "good for pub food" - a distinction that anyone who's ever been served a microwaved lasagne in a London pub will understand. While I'm not going to list specific dishes (because watching a menu change is like watching paint dry in the London pub scene), the kitchen consistently turns out proper hearty fare that makes you forget you're eating in a place managed by a company with "Holdings" in its name.

Let's talk location because The Black Horse's position in Barnet is another irritatingly well-thought-out aspect. It's accessible enough to attract a decent crowd but not so central that you'll find yourself fighting through tourists taking selfies with their fish and chips. The neighborhood setting gives it that local pub feel while being welcoming enough that you won't get the "you're not from round here" stare when walking in.

Look, I didn't want to like what MLH has done with The Black Horse. I wanted to write a scathing critique about corporate ownership destroying another London pub's soul. Instead, I'm sitting here, nursing a perfectly kept pint, watching happy punters in a well-maintained beer garden, being served by staff who actually seem to care, and wondering if I need to reassess my entire worldview.

If you're in North London and looking for a proper pub experience - one that somehow manages to be both traditional and current - The Black Horse under MLH's stewardship is worth your time. And it pains me greatly to admit that. Book the function room for your next gathering, grab a pint in the garden, or settle in for some surprisingly good pub grub. Just don't come back and tell me I was right about it being good. My reputation as a cynic can't take much more damage.