Mannion's Pub

Just what New Ross needed - another pub claiming to serve "proper Irish fare" alongside the requisite pints of Guinness. Mannion's Pub in New Ross initially struck me as yet another tourist trap trading on tired Celtic charm, but I'll grudgingly admit there's more here than meets my cynical eye.

Let's address the elephant in the room - yes, it's housed in one of those impossibly quaint buildings that make American visitors swoon and reach for their cameras. But before you roll your eyes (as I did), step inside Mannion's Pub. The interior manages to walk that precarious line between authentic and accessible, like your favorite leather jacket that's worn in just right.

The bar staff deserves special mention, if only because they've mastered the art of making even a jaded food critic feel welcome without resorting to the manufactured cheerfulness that plagues so many establishments. They pour a proper pint - and yes, I'm tired of writing about perfectly-poured Guinness, but credit where it's due. The head actually holds its form long enough for you to finish contemplating your life choices.

But it's the food that forced me to reconsider my initial skepticism. The kitchen at Mannion's Pub New Ross operates with surprising finesse for a venue that could easily coast on drink sales alone. Their steak and Guinness pie (yes, more Guinness - we get it, we're in Ireland) is actually worth writing home about, assuming anyone still writes home. The pastry achieves that golden-brown perfection that makes you wonder if they've got a French-trained chef hiding in the back.

The Sunday roast requires a paragraph of its own, if only to properly document my journey from skeptic to believer. While the beef can occasionally miss the mark on seasoning (nobody's perfect), the chicken consistently emerges from the kitchen as if it's trying to win a beauty pageant for poultry. And unlike many pub roasts that treat vegetables as mere garnish, these sides actually taste like someone in the kitchen remembers what a vegetable should be.

Their dessert menu deserves particular praise, despite my best efforts to find fault. The sticky pudding - a dish I've had enough times to write a doctoral thesis on - manages to surprise even my dessert-jaded palate. It's rich without being cloying, sweet without being sugary, and warm enough to make you temporarily forget about your calorie-counting app.

What's particularly irksome is how they've managed to nail the pricing. It's not cheap - nothing good in Ireland is these days - but it's fair enough that you can't really complain without sounding like that person who still expects 1995 prices. Main courses hover in that sweet spot where you know you're paying for quality but don't feel like you're being taken for a ride.

The live music sessions (Thursday through Sunday) add another layer of authenticity that I'm annoyed to admit enhances rather than detracts from the experience. Unlike some venues where traditional music feels forced, here it flows as naturally as the beer from the taps.

They've also embraced modern necessities without sacrificing character - you can pay by card (hallelujah), make reservations (strongly recommended), and even find decent parking nearby (a miracle in New Ross). The outdoor seating area, while not extensive, offers a pleasant spot for those rare days when Irish weather decides to cooperate.

Here's the truly infuriating part - Mannion's Pub actually gets better the more you visit. Just when you think you've got it figured out, you'll discover something new, like their surprisingly decent wine selection or the way they accommodate families without letting the place turn into a playground.

So fine, I'll say it - Mannion's Pub in New Ross is worth your time and money. Book ahead for dinner (especially weekends), bring an appetite, and prepare to join me in the ranks of reluctant admirers. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.