JJ Bowles (Limerick's Oldest Pub)

Just what the world needs - another historic Irish pub claiming to be the oldest something-or-other in somewhere-or-other. JJ Bowles in Limerick supposedly holds the title of the city's most ancient watering hole, and like every pub from Dublin to Dingle, they won't let you forget it. Rolling my eyes, I pushed open the weathered door, fully prepared to be underwhelmed by yet another tourist trap trading on its yellowed license.

I hate being wrong. But here I am, nursing what might be the finest pint of Guinness in Limerick, watching the Shannon River flow past the beer garden, and reluctantly admitting that JJ Bowles has earned its legendary status. The barman didn't even flinch when I ordered - no tourist-friendly spiel about the "perfect pour" or "119.5 seconds of settling" - just pulled a pint like he's done it since the dawn of time and set it before me without fanfare.

The interior hits that sweet spot between preserved and preserved-to-death. Unlike some "historic" pubs that feel like they were decorated by a Hollywood set designer with a fetish for fake cobwebs, JJ Bowles wears its age naturally. The wood-paneled walls have actually been darkened by decades of conversation and cigarette smoke (from before the ban, youngsters), not a rushed application of artificial antiquing.

Let's address the elephant in the room - yes, they basically only serve drinks and bags of crisps. No artisanal small plates, no fusion pub grub, no "deconstructed" anything, thank whatever deity you prefer. In an era where every pub thinks it needs to be a gastropub, there's something refreshingly honest about a place that knows exactly what it is: a proper drinking establishment where the focus is on perfect pints and good craic.

Speaking of perfect pints - and I cannot believe I'm about to write this - the Guinness here is exceptional. I've had my share of mediocre pints in supposedly legendary pubs, but JJ Bowles in Limerick serves the kind of stout that makes you understand why people write poetry about the stuff. It's creamy, properly cold (but not too cold), and has that perfect bitter-sweet balance that makes you forget you're drinking what is essentially liquid bread.

The covered beer garden deserves special mention, if only because it offers what might be the least pretentious river view in Ireland. While other establishments would have installed floor-to-ceiling windows and charged a premium for the privilege, JJ Bowles simply provides a comfortable space where you can watch the Shannon roll by while contemplating whatever needs contemplating. It's the kind of setup that makes you want to cancel your afternoon plans and order another round.

The staff deserve praise for maintaining that delicate balance between friendly and overbearing. They're happy to chat when it's quiet but know when to leave you to your thoughts. More importantly, they treat everyone the same whether you're a regular who's been coming in for forty years or a tourist who just stumbled in from the street. In today's hospitality landscape, that's rarer than a reasonable price for a pint in Temple Bar.

Speaking of prices - and here's where my cynical heart grows three sizes - they're surprisingly reasonable. In an age where some Dublin pubs charge enough for a pint to make you consider taking up sobriety, JJ Bowles keeps things firmly in the realm of the affordable. It's almost suspicious how they manage to maintain such reasonable prices while serving such quality drinks, but I've decided not to question it too closely.

The pub's location in Limerick's medieval quarter adds to its charm, though I'm loathe to admit it. After a few pints, you might actually believe you're drinking in the same spot where people have been drinking for centuries - because you are. It's just far enough off the main tourist track to keep the coach tours at bay, but close enough to everything that you can easily stumble back to your hotel.

Look, I didn't want to love JJ Bowles. I walked in ready to write a scathing review about yet another overhyped "historic" Irish pub. Instead, I'm sitting here planning my next visit, watching the sunset over the Shannon, and wondering if I should delete my previous drafts. If you're in Limerick and you only have time for one pub (though why would you limit yourself like that?), make it JJ Bowles. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.