Foley's Bar

Just what Dublin needed - another "authentic" Irish pub trying to separate tourists from their euros. Foley's Bar sits there on Merrion Row, smirking at passersby like it knows something they don't. And perhaps it does, much to my continuing irritation.

I'll admit, I walked in ready to hate it. The exterior has that calculated weathered charm that usually signals a carefully manufactured "genuine Irish experience." But Foley's Bar in Dublin managed to do something I didn't expect - it made me question my own cynicism. Damn them.

The Guinness? Perfectly poured, with that signature cascade that never fails to hypnotize even the most jaded locals. I watched the bartender take his time with each pint, and while part of me wanted to roll my eyes at the theatrical pause between pours, I couldn't fault the result. The creamy head stood proud above the glass like some sort of liquid architecture.

Let's talk about the atmosphere because it's here where Foley's really starts to work its annoying magic. The live music isn't the usual tired rendition of "Whiskey in the Jar" that makes you want to flee into the night. Instead, they manage to curate performers who understand the difference between entertainment and auditory assault. The traditional sessions actually feel... traditional. I hate that I'm writing this.

The outdoor seating area provides prime people-watching opportunities, though you'll have to contend with the endless parade of selfie-stick wielding tourists. But here's the thing - even that becomes part of the charm. There's something genuinely entertaining about watching visitors experience their first proper pint while locals roll their eyes and hide their smiles behind their own glasses.

Speaking of locals, that's perhaps Foley's most irritating success - it's managed to maintain its appeal to Dubliners despite being firmly on the tourist trail. You'll find business folks from nearby offices dropping in for after-work drinks, regulars who've been claiming the same bar stools since before I was born, and yes, visitors from every corner of the globe. Somehow, it works.

The service can be hit or miss, with some staff channeling that particular brand of Dublin pub personality that walks the line between charming and challenging. But even that feels genuine rather than affected. When they're good, they're exceptional - quick with recommendations, generous with stories, and masters of reading whether you want conversation or just to be left alone with your thoughts and your pint.

They've got the requisite Irish whiskey selection, and while the prices aren't exactly gentle on the wallet, they're standard for this part of Dublin. The cocktail menu exists for those who insist on ordering such things in a proper pub, though watching someone order a cosmopolitan here feels like wearing flip-flops to a funeral - technically allowed but spiritually wrong.

For those looking to catch a match, the screens are well-placed and numerous enough that you won't have to perform neck gymnastics to follow the action. During major sporting events, the atmosphere crackles with the kind of energy that reminds you why people have been gathering in pubs for centuries.

The bathrooms are... well, they're pub bathrooms. They've seen better days, but they're regularly maintained, which is more than you can say for some establishments in the area. The mysterious camera presence might raise eyebrows, but it's presumably there to prevent the sort of shenanigans that occur when tourists discover the true strength of Irish measures.

Look, I didn't want to like Foley's Bar. I wanted to dismiss it as another soulless tourist trap in a city that sometimes feels like it's becoming one giant visitor center. But the truth is, it's earned its place in Dublin's pub landscape. Whether you're a local looking for a reliable spot to watch the match or a visitor seeking that elusive authentic Irish pub experience, Foley's manages to deliver without trying too hard - and that's precisely why it works.

Go ahead, push through the door, find yourself a spot at the bar, and order a pint. Just don't blame me when you find yourself becoming one of the regulars. Foley's Bar in Dublin has a way of doing that to people, and I've reluctantly made peace with recommending it. Just promise you won't order a cosmopolitan.