County Arms

Just what London needs - another pub claiming to be a proper local while serving gastropub fare at prices that would make your granddad weep into his warm bitter. The County Arms in London sits there on Trinity Road, smug in its Greene King livery, beckoning the wandering masses with promises of craft beer and "elevated pub grub." I rolled my eyes so hard they nearly got stuck.

But damn it all if I haven't found myself darkening their door with increasing frequency. Perhaps it's the way they've managed to walk that precarious tightrope between traditional boozer and modern pub without falling face-first into pretension. The space retains enough of its Victorian bones to feel authentic, while the renovations haven't turned it into yet another soulless, Instagram-ready venue that plagues South London these days.

The beer selection at County Arms had me prepared to unleash my most scathing criticism. Instead, I found myself begrudgingly impressed by a rotating cast of local brews alongside the usual suspects. Yes, sometimes they're out of your first choice, and yes, the prices make me wince slightly, but the pints are well-kept. When was the last time you could say that about a London pub that also serves food you'd actually want to eat?

Speaking of food - I arrived ready to pen a screed about another pub sacrificing honest grub at the altar of foodie culture. The menu reads like a greatest hits of British pub classics with just enough modern touches to justify the prices. But here's the infuriating part: they actually execute it well. The fish and chips don't taste like they came from a sysco truck, and the Sunday roast (when they haven't run out) is genuinely worth crossing postcodes for.

The covered beer garden deserves special mention, if only because it's managed to avoid the depressing plastic marquee aesthetic that's become endemic since 2020. They've created something that actually feels intentional rather than hastily cobbled together, with proper heaters that work more often than not - a miracle by London standards.

What really gets my goat is how they've maintained a proper pub atmosphere while catering to the various tribes that make up modern London pub culture. Sports fans can watch the match without drowning out conversation entirely. The after-work crowd can get their cocktails without making the regulars feel like they've wandered into Mayfair by mistake. Even dogs are welcome, though thankfully not in the numbers that turn some establishments into unofficial kennels.

The service warrants mention, if only because it's consistently inconsistent in that particularly British way. Some staff treat you like long-lost friends, others with the mild disdain that suggests you're interrupting their very important phone-scrolling session. It's exactly what you'd expect from a decent London pub, which is somehow comforting.

They take bookings - a blessing and a curse in equal measure. Yes, you can secure a table for Sunday lunch without performing an elaborate dance of arrival timing and hover-tactics, but it means the spontaneity of pub life takes a hit. The trade-off feels worth it, especially when you've seen the queue of hopefuls during peak times.

Live music appears occasionally, and unlike many venues where that phrase strikes terror into the hearts of conversation-seekers, they've managed to keep it from overwhelming the space. The dart board isn't just for show either - a small detail that speaks volumes about their commitment to maintaining actual pub credentials.

Look, I wanted to hate County Arms. I really did. Another London pub that's been given the modern treatment should have been an easy target for my well-honed cynicism. Instead, I'm forced to admit that they've created something that actually works. The prices are what they are - this is London after all - but you get what you pay for, a statement I don't make lightly.

If you're in this corner of London and seeking a pub that hasn't completely lost its soul to modernization while still offering decent food and properly kept beer, you could do far worse. And believe me, I've done the research. Book ahead for Sunday lunch, bring your dog if you must, and prepare to be annoyed at how much you enjoy it. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.