County Arms

Just what London needs - another gastropub claiming to elevate the humble roast dinner to new heights. The County Arms in Wandsworth has all the hallmarks that make my eyes roll: exposed brick walls, craft beer zealots, and the obligatory "we source locally" manifesto that's become more common than rain in Britain. And yet...

I found myself returning. Three times, if we're counting (which I'd rather not admit). There's something quietly confident about this place that sneaks up on you, like that friend who's actually funnier than you initially gave them credit for. The County Arms has mastered that delicate balance between maintaining its proper pub soul while serving food that makes you forget you're sitting in a place where people also watch rugby.

Let's talk about their Sunday roast, since that's what everyone else in London seems to be doing. The sharing roasts deserve particular mention - their lamb leg could feed a small village, or at least two very ambitious diners. The portion size isn't just generous; it's borderline ridiculous. I watched a couple next to me tackle one with the kind of determination usually reserved for scaling Everest. They failed magnificently, but seemed delighted about it.

The real surprise here isn't just the quality of the meat (though it is excellent), but rather the supporting cast. The Yorkshire puddings achieve that perfect balance between crispy exterior and cloud-like interior that makes you wonder if they've got a Yorkshire-pudding-whisperer hidden away in the kitchen. And the gravy... well, they're not stingy with it, thank heavens. Nothing worse than having to ration gravy like it's liquid gold.

Their events space, the Belvedere room, deserves mention, if only because it manages to be both elegant and unpretentious - a feat as rare as a properly priced pint in central London. They've somehow created a space that works equally well for wedding receptions and casual Sunday lunches, which is probably why they're constantly booked for both.

The bar program warrants attention too, even if you're just here for a quick pint. They've got an impressive selection of beers that goes beyond the usual suspects, and their cocktail list shows someone behind the bar actually knows what they're doing instead of just throwing spirits together and hoping for the best. The wine list is surprisingly decent for a pub, though priced at levels that suggest the bottles were personally carried over from France on horseback.

Service manages to hit that sweet spot between attentive and overbearing. The staff seem to actually enjoy working here, which in London's hospitality scene is about as rare as a quiet tube ride. They're knowledgeable without being pretentious, friendly without being fake, and efficient without making you feel rushed.

For families, they've got a children's menu that doesn't insult the intelligence of young palates - no dinosaur-shaped chicken nuggets in sight. Dogs are welcome too, which adds to the genuine community feel rather than seeming like a calculated marketing ploy.

The County Arms sits in that price bracket where it's not cheap enough for a casual weekday lunch, but not so expensive that you need to remortgage your house for Sunday dinner. The value proposition actually makes sense, especially given the portion sizes that seem designed to ensure nobody leaves hungry (or without leftovers).

Look, I wanted to dismiss the County Arms as just another London pub jumping on the gastropub bandwagon. But they've managed to create something that actually works - a proper pub that serves proper food, where you can have a pint with your mates or take your parents for Sunday lunch without either party feeling out of place. In a city where venues often try too hard to be everything to everyone, the County Arms has somehow pulled it off without making me want to roll my eyes (much).

If you must know - and I say this through gritted teeth - yes, you should probably book a table. Just don't tell them I sent you. I've got a reputation to maintain.