Bulls Head

Oh great, another riverside pub in London claiming to offer something special. The Bulls Head in London sits there smugly along the Thames, practically daring you not to enjoy its water views and allegedly "proper pub fare." I approached with the weary skepticism that comes from reviewing one too many mediocre establishments trading solely on their location.

Let's be honest - we've all been burned by these waterfront spots before. They lure you in with promises of picturesque dining, then serve up microwaved disappointment alongside overpriced pints. So when I pushed open the door of the Bulls Head, I was armed with my usual cynicism and a notepad ready to document another predictable letdown.

But damn it all if this place didn't start to wear down my carefully cultivated jadedness.

First, there's that view. Yes, yes, the Thames is lovely - we all know London's river has its charms. But the Bulls Head actually does something interesting with its riverside setting. The upstairs room offers a surprisingly captivating vista of both the water and the railway bridge, creating an oddly mesmerizing convergence of London's industrial heritage and natural beauty. I caught myself staring, then quickly pretended to be checking my phone.

The food, which I was fully prepared to dismiss as standard pub grub, had the audacity to be legitimately good. Their signature burger (and I typically roll my eyes at anything labeled "signature") arrives with a properly hefty beef patty that's actually seasoned like someone in the kitchen gives a damn. It's juicy enough to require multiple napkins - always a good sign when you're forced to abandon dignity in pursuit of the last bite.

The staff, who I assumed would display the enthusiasm of DMV workers on a Monday morning, turned out to be irritatingly competent and genuine. They know their beer selection (which is both extensive and well-kept), can actually explain the menu without resorting to "everything's good" platitudes, and - most shockingly - seem to enjoy their jobs. It's unsettling.

For a mid-range establishment, the Bulls Head manages to strike that elusive balance between casual comfort and subtle sophistication. The prices won't make you choke on your pint, but they're just high enough to keep the rowdier elements at bay. Most main courses hover in that sweet spot where you can justify it as "treating yourself" without having to check your account balance first.

They've even managed to make the interior work, despite my initial skepticism about yet another "traditional London pub" aesthetic. The space feels lived-in rather than artificially aged, with comfortable nooks that practically demand you settle in for another round. The dog-friendly policy adds a genuine touch of community feel, though I'll never admit how much I enjoyed watching a particularly enthusiastic golden retriever charm its way through the dining room.

The menu deserves special mention, if only because it forced me to eat my words along with my meal. The kitchen handles both pub classics and more ambitious fare with surprising competence. The fish dishes, which I ordered fully expecting to construct a scathing paragraph about frozen mediocrity, emerge fresh and properly cooked. Even their vegetarian options show actual thought rather than the usual grudging afterthought of a sad mushroom burger.

Practical details? Fine. They take reservations (make one for the upstairs room if you can), accept all major cards (how gracious), and offer free parking - a minor miracle in this part of London. They serve lunch and dinner daily, though you'd be wise to book ahead for peak times and sunny weekends when the Thames-side location draws crowds like moths to a flame.

Look, I didn't want to like the Bulls Head London. I really didn't. But much like that last pint you know you shouldn't order but absolutely will, this place has a way of winning you over. Whether you're looking for a proper meal, a well-kept pint, or just a spot to watch the river roll by while pretending to be productive on your laptop, you'll find yourself staying longer than intended. And yes, fine, I admit it - I've been back. Several times. Just don't tell anyone I recommended it. I have a reputation to maintain.