Brian Muldoon & Sons

Just what Ardee needed - another pub masquerading as a gastropub. Brian Muldoon & Sons sits there on the main drag, looking all proud of itself with its perfectly weathered facade and carefully curated "authentic Irish" atmosphere. I rolled my eyes so hard they nearly got stuck when my editor assigned me this review. But here's the thoroughly annoying truth: this place is actually good. Really good.

I've spent years developing my professional skepticism, yet Brian Muldoon & Sons in Ardee managed to chip away at my cynicism with infuriating competence. The first crack in my armor appeared when they didn't immediately try to sell me on their "famous" anything. Instead, the staff just quietly went about their business, displaying the kind of genuine hospitality that makes you suspicious because surely no one's actually that nice without an ulterior motive.

The menu reads like a greatest hits of pub classics, which usually means mediocrity across the board. But no - they had to go and execute everything with maddening precision. The burger arrives looking like it just stepped out of a food photographer's dreams, except it actually tastes as good as it looks. The meat is clearly fresh-ground, and the onion rings (which I ordered purely to find fault with) are hand-battered specimens that make the frozen variety seem like rubber bands in comparison.

Here's what really gets me: they've managed to nail that elusive sweet spot between "proper pub" and "actual restaurant" that so many places aim for and miss spectacularly. The bar area maintains its traditional charm without feeling like a museum piece, while the dining space strikes a balance between casual and refined that makes both suited-up business types and families with children feel equally at home.

The pricing is fair enough, I suppose, though you could probably find cheaper pub grub elsewhere in town. But then you'd miss out on their actually-fresh seafood (imagine that - seafood you don't have to fear in a pub), properly cooked steaks, and desserts that taste suspiciously homemade. The raspberry brûlée, in particular, is so good it made me temporarily forget my professional obligation to find fault with everything.

They've done something clever with the space too, adding a rooftop terrace that's surprisingly pleasant when Ireland's weather decides to cooperate. Sports fans can catch the game on strategically placed screens that somehow don't dominate the atmosphere, and there's live music that manages to enhance rather than overwhelm the experience - a miracle in itself.

What's particularly vexing is how they've maintained consistency. Multiple visits (purely for thorough research, of course) revealed the same high standards whether serving breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The coffee is better than it has any right to be, the brunch menu actually offers dishes worth getting out of bed for, and the dinner service handles everything from casual bites to proper meals with equal attention to detail.

Even more annoying is their apparent commitment to accessibility. The menu includes thoughtful vegetarian options that aren't just sad afterthoughts, and the children's menu features real food rather than the usual frozen nugget parade. The parking situation is mercifully straightforward, with both lot and street options available, and they take every payment method known to modern civilization.

Look, I hate to admit this, but Brian Muldoon & Sons has become something of a cornerstone in Ardee's dining scene, and deservedly so. Whether you're a local looking for a reliable regular spot or just passing through town (it's particularly convenient for those Dublin-Belfast journeys), you'll find yourself in frustratingly capable hands here.

Make a reservation if you're planning to dine during peak hours - the place has developed an irritatingly loyal following. And yes, I suppose I've become one of them, though it pains me to admit it. Brian Muldoon & Sons in Ardee has earned its reputation the hard way: by consistently delivering quality when they could have easily coasted on being the only game in town. There, I said it. Now excuse me while I go book a table for Sunday lunch.