Brad Ógs Bar & Brads Takaway

Just what New Ross needed - another pub with a takeaway attached. Brad Ógs Bar & Brads Takaway (yes, that apostrophe is conspicuously missing) sits there on the street like a defiant challenge to both spelling conventions and gastronomy. Yet here I am, penning what's about to become a surprisingly positive review of this dual-personality establishment in New Ross's evolving food scene.

Let's address the elephant in the room - the peculiar hybrid nature of Brad Ógs Bar. It's a pub that couldn't decide whether it wanted to be just a watering hole or feed the masses, so it went ahead and did both. Normally, this would be where I'd launch into a tirade about jack-of-all-trades establishments mastering precisely nothing, but hold that thought.

The first thing that caught my attention was the parking situation - ample space, which in New Ross is about as rare as a warm day in January. Already, they're one up on half the establishments in town that expect you to develop parallel parking skills worthy of a Formula 1 driver.

Inside, yes, there are those two pillars near the pool table that one particularly disgruntled reviewer mentioned. They're supporting the building, darling - would you prefer the roof in your lap? Though I must admit, it does add an element of skill to your game when you have to execute shots around architectural features.

But here's where my cynicism started to crack. The bar service is surprisingly competent, with staff who actually seem to remember your face and drink preference after a visit or two. They're serving proper pints, cocktails that don't taste like they were mixed by someone whose only qualification is watching "Cocktail" once in 1988, and a wine selection that, while not exactly challenging Bordeaux's finest, is perfectly serviceable.

The outdoor seating area is another unexpected pleasure. In a country where outdoor dining often means huddling under a dripping awning while your cigarette slowly dissolves in the rain, they've managed to create a space that's actually pleasant to occupy. The tables are clean, the chairs don't wobble, and there's enough space between them that you're not inadvertently joining someone else's conversation.

Now, about that takeaway portion. I approached Brad's Takaway (still cringing at the spelling) with the kind of trepidation usually reserved for gas station sushi. But damn it if they haven't managed to pull off something remarkable here. The menu isn't trying to be everything to everyone - a refreshing change in an era where some chippers seem to think they need to offer everything from pizza to pad thai.

Their burgers - and I can't believe I'm saying this - are actually good. Not "good for New Ross" good, but legitimately satisfying. The chips aren't just an afterthought either, arriving hot and crispy instead of the lukewarm, limp affairs that many places try to pass off as acceptable.

The establishment accepts all major forms of payment - cash, card, and even that newfangled contactless stuff - which is more than you can say for some supposedly more upmarket places in town. It's a small detail, but one that matters when you're not in the mood to hunt for an ATM at closing time.

What's particularly noteworthy about Brad Ógs Bar & Brads Takaway in New Ross is how it manages to serve two masters without disappointing either. The pub remains a proper pub - not some food-focused establishment that happens to serve alcohol. Meanwhile, the takeaway maintains its own identity without feeling like an afterthought.

Is it perfect? Of course not. The pool table situation is admittedly awkward, and there are moments when you might wish for a more extensive menu. But there's something wonderfully unpretentious about a place that knows exactly what it is and doesn't try to be anything else.

Look, I came to Brad Ógs Bar & Brads Takaway in New Ross prepared to be underwhelmed. Instead, I found myself becoming a regular - something that pains my critic's soul to admit. If you're in New Ross and looking for a spot that combines decent drinks, surprisingly good takeaway food, and the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to linger, you could do a lot worse. And yes, that's as close to a glowing recommendation as you're going to get from me. Now, if they could just sort out that apostrophe situation...