Bar + Block Steakhouse London Wimbledon

Just what Wimbledon needed - another steakhouse masquerading as a gastropub. When I first heard Bar + Block Steakhouse London Wimbledon was setting up shop, I rolled my eyes so hard I nearly sprained an ocular muscle. Because obviously, what this corner of London was desperately missing was yet another place serving slabs of beef to tennis enthusiasts and SW19 locals who can't be bothered to venture into central London for their meat fix.

I arrived with my expectations hovering somewhere between "chain restaurant mediocrity" and "at least there's alcohol." The interior hits that sweet spot between trying too hard and not trying hard enough - modern enough to justify the prices, casual enough that you won't feel underdressed in jeans. You know the look - industrial-lite with a dash of manufactured personality.

But damn them, they had to go and actually be good at what they do.

The first crack in my cynical armor appeared when the steak sampler arrived. I'd ordered it purely for journalistic thoroughness, fully prepared to pen a scathing comparison to superior cuts I'd had elsewhere. Instead, I found myself confronting a selection of properly aged, expertly cooked beef that forced me to reluctantly set aside my pre-written criticisms. The kitchen actually knows what rare means - a surprisingly rare achievement in itself (pun intended, fight me).

The chips are crispy. That shouldn't be noteworthy, but in a world where too many establishments serve pale, limp excuses for fries, it's worth mentioning. The onion rings achieve that perfect ratio of crunch to inner sweetness that makes you forgive yourself for ordering something so predictable. And the sauces - both the peppercorn and Diane - manage to complement rather than overwhelm the meat, which is really all one can ask of a sauce that costs extra.

Let's talk about the cocktails because they're another irritating bright spot. The bar staff, particularly one Ryan who seems pathologically determined to make everyone's day better, crafts proper drinks that don't taste like they were measured by algorithm. It's the kind of service that makes you forget you're in a chain restaurant, which I suspect is exactly what they're going for.

Breakfast, surprisingly, turns out to be their secret weapon. While everyone focuses on the steaks (which, fine, are the main draw), they're quietly serving one of the better morning meals in the area. It's the kind of breakfast that makes you question why you ever bother with trendy brunch spots charging twice as much for half the portion size.

The pricing sits in that sweet spot where you can't quite complain but still feel like you should. Main courses won't require a second mortgage, but they're not giving the stuff away either. The 30% off mains deals they run periodically make it feel like genuine value, though I'm slightly annoyed at having to admit that even at full price, the quality justifies the cost.

They've even managed to remember that not everyone wants to face-plant into a cow, offering vegetarian options that rise above the usual afterthought status. The menu for children exists and, remarkably, consists of more than just chicken nuggets and chips - though those are available for young traditionalists.

Parking isn't a nightmare (paid lot available, street parking if you're feeling lucky), and the restaurant is spacious enough that you won't be sharing breathing space with neighboring tables. The Premier Inn location might put some people off, but don't let it - this isn't typical hotel restaurant fare.

Look, I wanted to dismiss Bar + Block Steakhouse London Wimbledon as just another soulless chain outpost. But they've committed the cardinal sin of actually being good at what they do. Whether you're after a solid breakfast, a business lunch that won't break the bank, or a dinner that satisfies both the steak enthusiast and the cocktail connoisseur in your life, they've got you covered. Make a reservation - yes, they take those, another point in their favor - and prepare to be annoyingly impressed. Just don't tell them I sent you. I have a reputation to maintain.