Bar + Block Steakhouse London Sutton

Just what London needed - another steakhouse trying to be all things to all people. Bar + Block Steakhouse London Sutton sits there in its middling glory, attempting to convince us it's somehow different from the countless other establishments serving up slabs of beef to the masses. I approached with the enthusiasm of a vegetarian at a BBQ competition.

Let's address the elephant in the room - their ambitious attempt to cover every dining period known to humanity. Breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, and probably midnight snacks if you bat your eyelashes at the staff hard enough. Usually, when a restaurant tries to do everything, they excel at precisely nothing. But here's where my cynicism started to crack, ever so slightly.

The cocktail menu caught me off guard. I expected the usual suspects - your watered-down mojitos and unnecessarily complicated martinis. Instead, I found myself nodding appreciatively at both the selection and execution. The bartenders actually seem to know what they're doing, which in Sutton is about as rare as a properly cooked steak in... well, some of their competitors.

Speaking of steak, let's talk about the main event. The prices won't make you choke on your wine (which, by the way, is surprisingly decent for a place that isn't trying to be a wine bar), but they're not exactly giving it away either. The quality, though - and it pains my cynical heart to admit this - is consistently good. Not life-changing, not write-home-to-mother fantastic, but solidly, reliably good. Like that friend who's never the life of the party but always helps you move house.

The dining room attempts to walk the line between casual and upscale, much like your coworker who wears sneakers with a blazer. Somehow, it works. The space is comfortable enough for a family dinner (yes, they have a children's menu, because apparently tiny humans need to eat too), yet suitable for those "I'm trying to impress someone but not too obviously" dates.

Service is where things get interesting. Some staff members seem to have graduated from the "Actually Gives a Damn" school of hospitality, while others appear to be auditioning for a role in a performance art piece about indifference. Special mention goes to certain servers (Jess, I'm looking at you) who somehow manage to make you feel like you're dining at a much pricier establishment.

The breakfast offering deserves its own paragraph, if only because it's such an odd addition to a steakhouse's repertoire. Yet, somehow, they pull it off with more finesse than expected. The full English isn't trying to reinvent the wheel, but it rolls along quite nicely, thank you very much.

For the business crowd, it's worth noting they take reservations - a blessed relief in a world where too many places think queuing is part of the dining experience. The paid parking situation nearby might make your wallet whimper, but welcome to London, folks.

Let's talk vegetarian options, because apparently even steakhouses need those now. They've made an effort, which is more than can be said for some places that think a sad mushroom risotto counts as vegetarian cuisine. It's not going to win any awards, but your plant-based friends won't go hungry while you demolish your sirloin.

The location in Sutton puts it in that sweet spot where you don't have to mortgage your house for dinner, but you still feel like you're having a proper night out. It's become one of those reliable spots that, despite my best efforts to maintain my professional cynicism, I find myself recommending more often than I'd like to admit.

Fine. I'll say it. Bar + Block Steakhouse London Sutton has earned its place in the city's dining landscape. It's not perfect - nowhere is - but it's better than it needs to be, which in today's restaurant scene is something of a miracle. Book a table, order a cocktail, and prepare to be pleasantly surprised. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.