An Poc Fada

Just what Kilkenny needed - another Irish pub trying to be everything to everyone. An Poc Fada sits there on High Street, beckoning tourists and locals alike with its predictably weathered facade and promises of "authentic" experiences. I arrived with expectations lower than a limbo champion at a leprechaun convention.

But damn it all if this place didn't make me eat my words along with some surprisingly decent pub grub. An Poc Fada Kilkenny has somehow managed to thread the needle between tourist trap and legitimate local haunt, which is about as rare as finding a four-leaf clover in a concrete jungle.

Let's address the elephant in the room - yes, it's another sports-showing, pint-pulling establishment in a city that could probably use a few more like it needs a hole in the head. But here's where things get interesting: they actually know what they're doing. The screens are positioned so you can catch the match without feeling like you're in a Best Buy showroom, and the sound levels won't have you shouting your dinner order like you're at a metal concert.

Speaking of dinner, I approached the menu with the same enthusiasm I reserve for dental appointments. Yet somewhere between the first bite of perfectly melty sirloin and the last morsel of what turned out to be legitimately impressive pork belly, I found myself grudgingly revising my opinion. The kitchen at An Poc Fada clearly didn't get the memo that pub food is supposed to be mediocre at best.

The Thai curry, of all things, deserves special mention. Finding a proper spicy curry in an Irish pub is about as expected as finding a teetotaler at a whiskey tasting, but here we are. It's got kick, complexity, and enough heat to make you grateful for the extensive beverage selection.

And oh, that beverage selection. They've got everything from your standard pints to craft options that don't make you feel like you're being punished for having sophisticated taste. The Heineken 0% is actually served properly cold - a minor miracle in itself for those of us who occasionally need to maintain our dignity and driving privileges.

The service manages to hit that sweet spot between attentive and overbearing, though sometimes they're a bit too eager with the plate-clearing. I appreciate efficiency as much as the next critic, but I don't need my plate whisked away the moment I put down my fork like I'm in some sort of speed-eating competition.

Breakfast service (yes, they do that too) is surprisingly competent, though I'm still trying to figure out if being able to get a decent full Irish breakfast at 8 AM is a blessing or a curse. The coffee is actually drinkable, which in a pub is about as unexpected as finding a vegetarian at a bacon festival.

Price-wise, it sits in that comfortable middle ground where you won't need to remortgage your house, but you might want to check your account balance before ordering that extra round. For what you get, it's fair enough - though I've had comparable meals for less elsewhere in Kilkenny. But then again, those places probably won't let you watch the match while you eat.

The atmosphere deserves mention - it's managed to maintain that lived-in pub feel without crossing over into "needs a good scrub" territory. The live music nights aren't the cacophonous affairs you might expect, and they've somehow mastered the art of being good for groups without making solo diners feel like social pariahs.

Location-wise, An Poc Fada Kilkenny has planted itself firmly in the heart of the action, making it an unfortunately convenient choice for both impromptu dining and planned gatherings. The fact that you can reserve a table online drags it kicking and screaming into the 21st century, which I suppose we should be grateful for.

Look, I didn't want to like An Poc Fada. I really didn't. But like that friend who keeps making bad jokes that somehow end up making you laugh, it's worn me down. If you find yourself in Kilkenny looking for a spot that does most things right (and I can't believe I'm saying this), you might as well give it a go. Just don't tell them I sent you - I have a reputation to maintain.